Bagni di Lucca and Beyond

I am back in Australia for a few months. Lots of people ask why I would return to Australia for the winter. There are two reasons, I find Italy too hot and crowded in summer and in Brisbane winter days are usually sunny and 22 degrees after a cool early morning…perfect.

The other thing people ask all the time are what are my favourite things in Italy. I have decided to write posts about the places I love the best. I am going to start with Florence. It is an easy day trip from Bagni di Lucca, so I go often. I also like staying overnight sometimes as the city takes on another personality once the sun goes down and becomes even more enchanting.

Here are things I like in beautiful Florence.

I always start my day in Florence at the Caffe Gilli on a corner of the Piazza Republica.

I like to stand at the counter like a local and enjoy a perfect coffee and a delicious pastry. It is inexpensive if you stand at the bar and I love watching the baristas in action in this truly gorgeous setting. Established in 1733 it is the second oldest cafe in Italy after Florian in Venice. They also have a great toilet, not easy to find in Italian towns. Caffe Gilli is open in Florence

From here I take off to explore the city. The historical centre is not huge and is easy to navigate. I am mostly in Florence in the quieter seasons when heat and crowds are not an issue.

I am happy to just wander in Florence if I have nothing particular in mind. Once I leave Caffe Gilli I usually walk down to the Piazza Signoria, the stunning piazza where Cosimo Medici sits on his horse, Neptune looks down at visitors from his fountain and the David copy watches from the front of the Palazzo Vecchio, the town hall, dating from 1299.

I wander past the Uffizzi to check out the queue before heading to the Ponte Vecchio, (old bridge) dating from 1345. If I am early enough in the morning there might not be too many people there and I can enjoy the lovely views of the Arno River and the jewellery shops lining the bridge.

From there I walk up to the Palazzo Pitti. Here you can buy a ticket to get into the Boboli Gardens. The gardens have been recently upgraded. Be sure to walk to the top for excellent views over the city. There are often exhibitions in the galleries within the Palazzo. It is worth going if only to see the stunning interior of the building.

From the Palazzo Pitti I walk down Via dello Sprone towards Piazza Santo Spirito. On the way there is a modern coffee and lunch spot called Ditta Artiginale. Depending how long it has taken for find myself there I drop in for a short break.

The narrow streets in this area are full of small designer shops where you are likely to find the designer working behind the counter. Lots of treasures have found their way home from here. Artisans in Florence

Piazza Santo Spirito is a lively square where there is often a food and clothing market. There are excellent restaurants in and around the square and there are fewer foreign tourists here. This is where locals come to shop and eat.

From here I head back towards the river and cross the Ponte Santa Trinita for excellent views of the Ponte Vecchio. Look out for the statures of the 4 seasons on each corner of the bridge. The other bridge in Florence

The bridge leads into Via Tornabuoni, the stylish shopping street with Salvatore Ferragamo (check out their shoe museum), Gucci, Pucci, Armani, Prada, Max Mara and more.

If you turn right into Via degli Strozzi, past the Palazzo Strozzi, ( there is a museum inside with constantly changing exhibitions) you will come back into Piazza Republica. Turn left at Caffe Gilli and soon arrive at the spectacular Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore with the baptistery and campanile.
Buy a ticket to climb to the top of the campanile (bell tower) the dome and visit the baptistery. The Duomo was begun in 1296 and was structurally completed in 1436 with the dome by Filippo Brunelleschi.  It is free to enter the church, but go early or face long queues. This piazza is one of the most beautiful in Italy. 414 steps to the top of the Campanile in Florence

My next stop is often the Mercato Centrale, the deliciously indulgent food market.  Mercato Centrale . As well as the food stalls there are a couple of great places to have lunch. I wish I lived close by so I could shop here every day.

Upstairs is a fabulous food hall where you can join locals and get a quick lunch at very reasonable prices. In front of the food market is the famous leather market if you are looking for souvenirs.

I regularly call into the Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy not far from the railway station. It is exquisite. On a hot day you can step into the cool, fragrant space and be delighted but the beautiful products in the oldest, still operating pharmacy in the world. It was established in 1221, when Dominican monks from the adjacent Basilica of Santa Maria Novella began growing herbs to make balms and medicines for their infirmary.

Be sure to look for the cloister and if you have time go into the Basilica to see the magnificent frescoes.

Here are my museum suggestions.

Uffizzi Gallery…Of course everyone wants to see this and it is wonderful, but you will need to book ahead or face long queues. I only go in winter, when there are fewer people around, and I can just walk in. If you don’t have a booking I would suggest less well known museums. An Uffizzi visit 

It is the same with the Accademia where you will find Michelangelo’s David. Seeing him up close is stunning and the whole gallery is a delight. Book ahead! Florence

Palazzo Davanzati is a 14th century house turned into a museum. It has been decorated as it would have been centuries ago, a wonderful glimpse into another time. It is rarely crowded and well worth a look. Palazzo Davanzati – a house in Florence

Bargello National Museum is a favourite of mine. There is rarely a crowd and there are masterpieces by Michelangelo, Giambologna, Della Robbia, Donatello and much more. The magnificent Bargello museum in Florence

 

Museo Galileo in Piazza dei Giudici is an excellent museum. We ducked in one rainy day and found ourselves still there hours later. There is a collection of Medici scientific instruments and lots of fascinating things. If you want something different, this is the one for you. https://www.museogalileo.it

Places where I like to eat. As well as the ones mentioned above I like…

Il Nugolo, just out of the centre in Vis della Mattonaia 27R, this modern Italian restaurant is only open at night, which is one of the reasons I like to stay sometimes.https://Ilnugolo.com . New in Florence

La Menagere, in Via de’ Ginori 8R, is a gorgeous spot for lunch, aperitivo and dinner. It is quite expensive, great for a special treat.  https://www.lamenagere.it. Heavenly food in Florence

Obica Mozzarella Bar, is a fun, well priced restaurant in a lovely courtyard in Via Tornabuoni. (beside Max Mara) As the name suggests, they specialise in mozzarella. They do excellent pizzas as well. Obica Mozzarella Bar in Florence

At the top of the Rinascente department is an open terrace restaurant with stunning views of the Duomo and the streets of Florence. There is also one on the top floor inside. It is a great spot for lunch, a snack or aperitivo. On a fine day the terrace is a fabulous place to be.

Cantinetta Antinori, is the beautiful restaurant on the ground floor the Palazzo Antinori, home of the famous wine producing family. This is another special occasion restaurant. https://cantinetta-antinori.com

Trattoria Cammillo, is a wonderful traditional restaurant famous for its home style pasta. It is in Borgo San Jacopo 57r.

Trattoria La Casalinga is in the Santo Spirito area in Via dei Michelozzi 9r. Casalinga means housewife, so expect home style cooking.

S.forno Panificio is also in the Santo Spirito district, in Via Santa Monica 3r. It is a great spot for a light lunch or to gather some supplies.

Gucci Garden in Piazza Signoria is the perfect place for lunch or aperitivo. We were there on opening day by chance, and fell in love with it. There is now an outside area as well. It is expensive, but a wonderful place for a treat.

Obviously there are many good restaurants in Florence. I also recommend checking out the menu, which is often placed outside the restaurant. Find something you like the look of and go inside. I have seldom had a bad meal in Florence.

Hotels I have stayed in…I have a few favourite places. Keep in mind that I only stay in Florence in the off season. Some of these hotels can be quite expensive in the more sought after months.

Hotel Calimala is right in the centre of Florence, in Via Calimala which leads to the Ponte Vecchio. I stayed there when it was newly opened and I joined their loyalty programme and get the odd discount. There is terrace on the top floor with a restaurant, great spot for aperitivo, but it is expensive.

Hotel Maxim Axial is very reasonably priced in the off season. This year prices have skyrocketed with tourists arriving in droves since Covid restrictions have lifted. Via del Calzaiuoli 11.

Palazzo Guadagni is a gorgeous hotel in the Piazza Santo Spirito. I stayed there one Christmas during Covid and I think I might have been the only person there. They have a wonderful terrace where you can enjoy the perfect aperitivo.

Relais Piazza Signoria is a fabulous place beside the Piazza Signoria. We stayed in a top floor apartment with a balcony overlooking the piazza. I will definitely stay there again. Below is the view from the balcony. Via Vacchereccia 3.

Boutique Hotel del Corso is a well priced hotel close to the centre. Via del Corso 1.

Florence is one of the most popular cities in Italy so expect it to be busy unless you go in the winter months. This is when I visit the museums and galleries. It is also the best time to walk around the city.
At any time it is great to get away from the main streets and find yourself in a tiny back street or discover a quiet piazza, ancient buildings, quaint shops and much more. If you have time walk or catch a bus up to Piazzale Michelangelo above the city for excellent views and walk down via Giardino Bardini to see this gorgeous garden.

Find time to see the Fontana del Porcellino in front of the straw market. Visitors are invited to put a coin into the boar’s mouth, with the intent of letting it fall through the grate below for good luck, then rub the snout to ensure a return to Florence. He has a very shiny nose.

I have a lovely friend who is a guide in Florence. Her name is Michela Ricciarelli. She knows Florence like the back of her hand and I guarantee you will have a fun experience with her.http://www.passion4tuscany.com Email…michela@passion4tuscany.com

If you have any questions I will try to answer them. If you go to the Florence category you will find all the posts I have written about the city.