Posted by: Debra Kolkka | March 11, 2026

A visit to Turin

I have recently visited Turin for a few days. I have been before, mostly to see the Slow Food movement’s Salone del Gusto. I decided I needed to see more of the city.

Turin is the capital city of Piedmont in the north of Italy. It lies at the foothills (piedmont) of the alps. It is famous for grand architecture,  huge public squares, magnificent arcaded streets and stunning cafes.

Turin is huge and is full of big things. The station is huge.

 

 

Statues are huge.

I began my exploring in Piazza san Carlo, presided over by Duke Emanuele Filiberto on his horse.

The church of Santa Cristina and San Carlo Borromeo stand at one end.

 

It looks lovely at night.

I stopped on the edge of the piazza, under one of the elegant porticos, for coffee and a snack at 200 year old Caffe San Carlo. It has a restaurant, but mostly it is a coffee shop in a magnificent setting.

There have  been renovations since its creation, but the current one has worked around the 19th century Murano glass chandelier hanging in the centre of the room. It is said to be one of the largest in Europe. I see from some reviews that there is a queue to get in during the busy season. I was able to walk in and be seated without a wait… the benefits of travelling in March.

They have an all day menu. From this I ordered a toasted cheese sandwich. It rivalled the chandelier in size. It was delicious. I ate just the middle out of it and did not need to eat another thing all day.

The wide streets of Turin are lined with porticos, higher and wider than the ones in Bologna.



I found a stunning arcade with a cinema at the back. (closed)


The interior is very grand.

There is an amazing mini market in the arcade with a great selection of delicious goodies.

Walking further on I came to Piazza Castello, Turin’s main square. Here you will find the Royal Palace and gardens. It was originally built in the 16th century and modified by Christine Marie of France in the 17th century. In 1946 it became the property of the state and was turned into a museum.

The facade of the Palazzo Madama, facing Piazza Castello was mostly covered for renovation.

The other sides are spectacular.

I went in here so you don’t have to. This is one of the famous cafes of Turin, Caffe Mulassano. It is tiny and very cute. I arrived just as it opened. It was empty and I went to sit down. I was sharply directed to another table squeezed into the corner.
The coffee was excellent, as was the small croissant, beautifully served. If it had come with a side order of friendliness it would have been lovely, in spite of the €15 charge, but at no point was I made to feel welcome.



The good news is that there is another cafe almost next door, lovely without the attitude.

Stratta is much bigger and has a courtyard at the side, which would be excellent in warmer weather.

It had a much bigger selection and service with a smile.


I do expect to pay a premium price to sit in these exquisite places, but rudeness is never a good idea. Stratta was a much better option. They also have a restaurant with an excellent lunch and dinner menu.

This post is dragging on a bit. In the next posts I can show you a 1st century Roman gate, a Cinema museum in an incredible building, some stunning architecture, a special dinner and a very special coffee.

 

 

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | March 1, 2026

Return to Ponte a Serraglio

I am back in my second home in Ponte a Serraglio, our little part of Bagni di Lucca. I am enjoying the cool weather after the heat of Brisbane. This is what I wake up to.


The days are mostly warm and sunny as we move towards spring, I know the rain and cold can come back, so I am making the most of the pleasant weather.

Daffodils are blooming on my balcony and the iris is growing well. I have planted pansies in the pots and on the bridge.



I have been to lovely Lucca.

The magnolia trees are beginning to bloom. It won’t be long before the trees turn green.

I went with a friend to a seriously excellent pasticceria in Borgo Giannotti…Sandra & L’Angolo Dolce.  This must become a regular place to visit.



I love this tiny shop on Via Fillungo 59…Cosa Di. It is full of treasures.

There will be lots of trips to Lucca.

Pietrasanta was my next visit. It is one of my favourite nearby towns. There is always something interesting to see here.

Lunch at Ristorante Quarantuno never disappoints.

 

An overnight stay in Florence was great, apart from being caught in a train strike,

I always start my morning at Giacosa.

Some shop windows have excellent spring displays.

 


The Arno looks great even on an overcast day.

 


Menagere is my favourite place for lunch in Florence.

Wandering aimlessly in Florence is a joy.


…especially at night.




I did not need dinner, so it was back to Giacosa for aperitivo…a perfect end to the day.

I am heading to Torino for a couple of days this week. I have not been there for several years…time to return.

 

 

 

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | January 10, 2026

The end of and era in Vergemoli

Sisto, the music man of Vergemoli has died. To many, including me, he was the heart of Vergemoli. I’m not sure of his age, but he would have been around 90.

We no longer own Casa Debbio, the house we built in the village, but Sisto was always present in the 15 years we were involved there.

Sisto was very shy, but he did allow me to take his photo in 2013.

He lived a a house directly below Casa Debbio. We could only see it in the winter when the trees were bare, and then only glimpses.

The first time I became aware of Sisto was when I visited the building site of Casa Debbio and I came upon the builders laying bricks to the sound of tango music.

On investigation I found out that Sisto had speakers under the eaves of his house and on afternoons when the mood took him he liked to play music. He had old records with traditional Italian music, but tango seemed to be his favourite.

I walked down to find his house.


There were dozens of speakers under the eaves.


Once, several years ago, I went with a friend to Trassilico, a town on the other side of the valley from Vergemoli. We were surprised to hear Sisto’s music each time we came to a gap in the buildings. The speakers worked very well.

Sisto was a woodcutter and wood worker. His wood cutting equipment was originally powered by a waterfall behind his house. Most of the time I knew him he was still working and helped us on several occasions at Casa Debbio. I often saw him on the path to the house cutting and carrying huge loads of wood. He was small, but he was strong.

It was always wonderful to see the surprise on our visitors faces to hear music suddenly filling the valley. It was delightful and a huge part of the charm of Vergemoli.

Sisto will be missed. I truly hope that his music is not lost, that someone will keep his legacy alive and turn the music on sometimes.

 

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | January 1, 2026

Goodbye 2025

2025 has been a difficult year for the world. Crazy world leaders are causing havoc and misery. Unfortunately I can’t see 2026 being any better, I hope I am wrong.

I do feel guilty that I have a very comfortable life when so many others don’t. Anyway, here is my review of my privileged life in 2025.

I like to escape some of summer in Brisbane so I headed off in February to Italy, via Helsinki and Paris.

I love Helsinki in the winter, especially if it is covered in snow.

I had 4 days in beautiful Paris. I went to excellent exhibitions and did several tours of Le Bon Marche.

…and walked all over Paris.


Here are some posts from Paris in February.

Art and fashion at the Louvre

A serpent and doggie things at Le Bon Marche

Dolce & Gabbana in Paris

From Paris I went to our apartment in Bagni di Lucca. We have some gorgeous sunny winter days, and it is a joy to watch winter turn into spring.

 

It was fun watching the iris on my balcony bloom.

Back in Ponte a Serraglio,

I always go to the fabulous Viareggio Carnevale.

 

Carnevale Viareggio 2025

There are regular  trips to lovely Lucca 

and Florence.

…Pisa



Annalisa at Bar Italia closed for a week to expand and renovate. We were quite lost, but it was worth the wait. The new bar is great.



Lunch, dinner and aperitivo at La Ninfa in Ponte a Serraglio is fun.

Screenshot

We do lots of day trips and the occasional overnight stay.

Pienza is a favourite place to visit. We went with friends in early March.

Pienza and more

Orvieto is another place we keep going back to. In  April we stayed at a gorgeous hotel.

Orvieto revisited

In May we went with friends to San Gimignano, Siena and San Quirico d’Orcia.

 

San Gimignano, Siena and San Quirico d’Orcia

With the same friends we drove to nearby Lerici  and took the ferry to Portovenere.

Take the boat from Lerici to Portovenere

Later in May we went to England to meet friends. We went to Fowey in Cornwall.

Fowey in Cornwall

The visit included a day trip to Mevagissey 

 


Marvellous Mevagissey

We went north to Oxford to meet other friends and had day trips to delightful towns in the Cotswolds.

Beautiful Bibury

Cirencester, Capital of the Cotswolds

Tewkesbury, lunch and an Abbey

Stow on the Wold and England’s oldest inn

 

We spent some time in London.

Borough Market London

We went to Orkney for the Folk Music Festival.

Orkney Islands, Scotland

Cliffs, ruins and wildflowers on Orkney

Skara Brae in Orkney

In May we sold our beautiful Casa Debbio. It went from this…

 

…to this.

The house was sold to a couple who will love it as much as we did.

I won’t miss the drive up to the house, with its 8 kilometres of switchbacks, even though I usually had stop regularly to take in the magnificent view.

 

Then it was home to Brisbane for a while and regular daily life.There was a trip to Coolum with my son.

 

 

There was the fun of the Brisbane Fashion Festival.

Screenshot
Screenshot

Several trips to the GOMA in Brisbane.

In September I went back to Bagni di Lucca via Helsinki.

From Bagni di Lucca I visited Milan.

… Bologna.

…Pietrasanta.


…Vicenza

Vicenza, Palladio overload

Shopping and eating in Vicenza

I said goodbye to our apartment in October.

I went back to England to stay with my friends in Cambridge.

From there there were day trips to Bury St Edmonds.

Bury St Edmunds and the smallest pub in England

…Lavenham

Lovely lunch in Lavenham

From Cambridge I flew home via Paris.

With a friend i went to 2 excellent exhibitions at Arts Decoratifs.

Art in Paris

Back in Brisbane it was back to my sewing machine and days spent at Sarva, my friend’s shop.

I’m still sewing

Then it was Christmas.

Now it is 2026. Let’s hope it is a good year.

 

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Posted in Brisbane, Carnevale Viareggio, England, Helsinki, London, Lucca, Milan, Orkney Islands, Orvieto, Paris | Tags: , , , , ,

Posted by: Debra Kolkka | December 9, 2025

Lovely lunch in Lavenham

Lavenham is one of the best preserved medieval wool towns in England. It has a proud history of being one of the foremost cloth making centres in England from the 14th to the 16th century and was famous for its blue broadcloth. The many magnificent buildings that remain are a testimony to the town being one of the wealthiest in England at the time. By the late 15th century the town was among the the richest in the British Isles, paying more in taxation than larger towns like York and Lincoln.

Like many East Anglian settlements, Lavenham was home to an airfield in World War II.

The town is now one of the most beautiful villages in England. It blends the old with the new to make a modern, thriving community filled with charm and history….I visited with friends on an overcast May Day. Come for a walk through lovely Lavenham.

We first passed this great looking pub on our way to St Peter and St Paul church across the road.

We passed this beautiful pink house and walk through the cemetery to the church entrance.

The church dates from between 1486 and 1525. It was financed mainly through the contributions of several rich Lavenham clothiers, Lohan de Vere, Lord of the Manor and the 13th Earl of Oxford. It is excessively large for the size of the village. Its tower stands at 42 metres, making it the highest village church tower in Britain.




The interior is well preserved.

I was particularly impressed by this coat of arms.

The facade of the church has wonderful decoration.


Then it was off down the main street to discover more delights.

The gorgeous houses appear to fall into each other. I don’t think I saw a single right angle.


We saw some great doorways and street decoration and a lovely driveway.





We went to a seriously cute place for lunch. It was tiny, but packed with delights. The husband and wife team who own and run the place must work day and night to create this great space.

The dining room is small, just a handful of tables.

 

Menu was excellent. It was difficult to choose between the delicious sounding dishes. The owner/chef told us how he seeks out local produce to inspire is menu. We were all delighted with our lunch.

After lunch we were about to explore some of the inviting shops, when rain stopped play…

I would return to Lavenham if only for another delicious  lunch…and a bit more shopping.

Thank you Anup and Poorna for a great day out.

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | December 3, 2025

Bury St Edmunds and the smallest pub in England

Bury St Edmunds is a cathedral and market town in West Suffolk. I visited my lovely friends in Cambridge in May this year and we spent a day this beautiful town.

The town is best known for Bury St Edmunds Abbey and St Edmundsbury Cathedral. It was built on a grid pattern by Abbot Baldwin around 1080.  In 1214 the barons of England are believed to have met in the abbey church answers sworn to force King John to accept the Charter of Liberties, the document which influenced the creation of Magna Carta.’

Today it is known for brewing (Greene Kimg brewery) and a factory where Silver Spoon sugar is produced. We parked the car not far from a huge chimney sending clouds of steam into the air.

It was a short walk to through the Abbey Gardens to the town centre. The gardens were established in 1831. It was built on the site of the original botanical garden.

 


We came upon an internal garden in front of the ruins of the Abbey of St Edmunds, built in 1020, once the richest and most powerful Benedictine monasteries in England. The abbey’s importance led to its destruction. When Henry VIII closed the abbey in 1539, it was systematically demolished to demonstrate the king’s power and control. Apart from the abbot’s palace, the site was allowed to become a quarry for local building stone.


Most of the church was demolished, leaving the west front without its fine stonework. In the 18th century a number of houses were built within the shell. The remains of the original arches and the octagonal tower give an idea of what the original church would have looked like.



We left the courtyard through an arch into to Angel Hill St.

 


I love the facades of these old buildings.



We stopped at the information centre where an excellent guide gave us tips on what to see. We headed first to the St Edmundsbury Cathedral. It originated in the 11th century, was rebuilt in the 12th and 16th centuries and became a cathedral in 1914.

 

The font was designed in 1870 with decoration added in 1960.


The medieval stained glass ‘Susanna Window, has Flemish glass in the lower section and English glass at the top.


We went to The Nutshell, the smallest pub in England.

The claim to be the smallest in England has been disputed, but it is indeed tiny. It measures 4.57 metres x 2.13 metres and can hold 10 – 15 customers at one time. It has been trading since 1867

The decoration inside is interesting and includes the dried body of a dead cat, which was discovered in 1935 during building work. It is said to be 400 years old. In former times the bodies of cats were often placed inside the structure of buildings to bring good luck.

My favourite was the fox wearing sunglasses.

There is much more to keep your eyes busy darting around the room.


We enjoyed a beverage and a friendly chat with the bar attendant and a local who is a regular at the Nutshell. It was a fun visit.

Our next stop was the Cotswold Outdoor shop, one of the places the helpful woman at the information sent us to. She said there is a wooden pillar featuring carvings of Henry VIII and one of his wives. We walked in and could not see anything like this. I walked up a fabulous wooden staircase which turned out to be a replica of the original.

We asked a couple of attendants who knew nothing of the pillar. Finally one of them googled it and discovered it is in the corner window in the front of the shop. Before the Google search it had been suggested that we go back to the information centre to check the location. It is quite likely that it is not Henry VIII but another historical figure. I searched for more information and came up with no reference to Henry.

Anyway, here is the pillar. I think it is impressive regardless of who it is.

Abbeygate Street is lined with interesting shops and cafes.

Corn Exchange Wetherspoons is said to be the most beautiful Wetherspoons pub in England. I can’t comment as I have not been in another one, but it is certainly is impressive. I do like and English pub lunch.


On the way back to the car we spotted a group of pigeons gathering on a roof top, who knows why.


Thank you Anup for a great visit to Bury St Edmunds!

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | November 20, 2025

I’m still sewing

I have now been sewing for 60 years. My mother made our clothes when we were children, but by the time I was about 12 she became a bit too busy, so I learned to sew myself. I remember Mum taking me to buy fabric and a pattern.

Her idea of teaching me to sew involved opening the pattern and telling me to follow the instructions. She said she would help me if I got stuck. I got stuck on the zip, so she put that in for me. My first dress was made.

I made most of my clothes when I was a teenager and made things for my friends too. A dress would be made on Saturday morning to be worn out that night. I made all of my son’s clothes until he was old enough to want things from the shop like the other boys.

I sewed most of the clothes I sold in the shop I had in the Brisbane Arcade for 20 years. Now I am lucky that my friend Savva lets me use space in his shop to sell the things I make. I have a room full of fabric to work through and I like to make things, so I am still sewing.

Here are some of the things I have made lately. I make clothes that are easy to wear and suit our sub tropical climate. I only work in cotton and linen for summer. I also make tablecloths, napkins, tote bags, cushions and other small things.

 

 

 



I am slowly working through the mountain of fabric I have collected over the years. The mountain doesn’t seem to be decreasing, possibly because I keep finding new pieces. I only make a few things in each fabric, sometimes a one off. New things appear in the shop each day.

Sarva is at 239 Boundary St, West End, Brisbane. (cnr Corbett St) I will be in the shop from Tuesday to Saturday from 10.00 – 1.30 until I go back to Italy. Drop in if you are nearby. Savva does excellent made to measure and alterations, another reason to come to see us.

 

 

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | November 1, 2025

Art in Paris

On my way home from Italy I stayed in Paris for a couple of days. I was there the first day of the Art Deco exhibition at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs. Art Deco is my favourite style era, so after a friend sorted the ticket issue, we went to the exhibition.

The first exhibit was a recreation of some Orient Express train carriages. What fun it would have been to travel in such luxury!


I think this rug would fit perfectly at my house.


As would everything else I liked, especially this chair.


…and all of these lovely things.

 


 




There was a Paul Poiret exhibition on in the same museum. He was a French master couturier during the first 2 decades of the 20th century. He was born in 1879 and died in 1944.






 


Thee were a few items designed by more recent designers in the spirit of Poiret.



Poiret’s fashion house declined when Chanel and other designers came along with more simple clothing…things change.


The Bourse de Commerce was originally used as a place to negotiate the trade of grain and other commodities, and used to provide services to businesses by the Paris chamber of Commerce during the latter part of the 20th century. It is now a modern art museum housing the contemporary art from Francois Pinault’s collection.


There is usually a temporary exhibition in the central room. I am very sorry I missed the water pool earlier this year. The current one was not the reason for my visit.


The building itself is a work of art.

The frieze inside the dome is a historical 19th century painting depicting scenes of international trade and commerce. It has been recently restored.




Don’t miss the 18th century double helix staircase!

Coffee might not be art, but this new coffee destination could  be called art. I came upon Copains Rive Gauche at 68 Rue Saints-Peres and immediately stopped for coffee and a financier.


Coffee and a pastry in Paris is now around €14 in many places. That is quite a bit more than the coffee and sfoglia I have at Bar Italia across the bridge from my apartment in Bagni di Lucca. It is a steal at €2.40 and is every bit as delicious.

Food can be art too. My favourite place to have lunch is Lucien Le Grande in the gorgeous Galerie Vivienne, one of the most beautiful covered passageways in Paris. The luxurious walkway was built in 1823. I recommend a walk through even if you don’t stop for lunch.

Originally a gourmet grocery store, Lucien Le Grande opened in 1880 and 5 generations later it is now an iconic destination in Paris for gourmet food and fine wine. The wine cellar showcases wine from all over the world from over 370 winemakers.


Delicious food in a delightful setting. (More than 1 lunch)

This Dries Van Noten clutch was seen in the window of the shop. It is definitely art.

Rick Owens boots seen through window of the shop might be a bit difficult to wear, but are definitely works of art.


I will finish wth some beautiful public art in the Palais Royale.

There is much to love in Paris.

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | October 24, 2025

Shopping and eating in Vicenza

I found Vicenza to be a stylish and interesting city. I discovered a few excellent cafes where I had breakfast and aperitivo.

My first stop was Pasticceria Soraru, the oldest cafe in Vicenza. It stands in the shadow of the monument to Palladio in the Piazza dei Signori. In 1870 Celeste Soraru opened the pasticceria and it still serves great coffee and delicious pastries today. The charming, old fashioned interior drew me, but I sat outside under the portico to enjoy my first coffee of the day. Tables spill out into the piazza as well.

 


Pasticceria Venezia dates from 1964. It is still run by the same family,  but it has had a serious modern makeover recently by the look of it. It is renowned for its cakes made in the tradition of recipes from the Veneto region,

 

The one I liked the most was Pigafetta, almost next door to Pasticceria Venezia, run by 2 lovely older gentlemen. This would be my local if I lived in Vicenza. The pastries all looked delicious and the one I ate certainly was. I liked the old school feeling of the cafe.


I had aperitivo on the edge of the Piazza dei Signori. I forgot to look for the name, but it is on the left top corner facing the clock tower.

Not far away was this excellent looking place for aperitivo or some serious wine tasting…next time.


Ristorante tira tardi was the name of the lovely restaurant they drew me in for dinner.

I forgot to photograph the second course, but it was excellent, as was the service.

The restaurant is in this lovely street, Contrà Daniele Manin, off the Piazza dei Signori.

On my second night I went to Enoteca Veneta Ristorante in Corso Antonio Fogazzaro. The food and service were great. There was a lovely young waiter who had worked in Australia.

 


I was very happy that I went in search of this restaurant because I discovered this gorgeous long street filled with some of the most stylish shops and apartment buildings outside of a capital city in Italy.






The best thing was that there were lots of owners in the shops so i was able to have a nice chat with some genuine locals. In a couple of cases there were some elegant older signore running the shops. I learned that Vicenza is not really in the tourist trail so the shops cater for locals. There are clearly some very well dressed Vicenza residents.

I came upon a small, but well stocked fresh food market on one of my walks.

 


I stayed at Hotel due Mori, and older, elegant hotel a short step away from Piazza dei Signora, a perfect location.

Vicenza is a stunning city. I don’t know why it is not visited by hordes of tourists, because it deserves to be. Having said that, I like it just the way it is. It would make a great base from which to explore nearby, busier towns like Verona, Padova and Venice. It looks to be easy to get in an out of, so driving there should not be difficult. It is a short train ride from Vicenza to lots of interesting towns, leave the car behind and take the easy way.

 

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | October 11, 2025

Vicenza, Palladio overload

I have mostly done day trips on this visit to Bagni di Lucca. I have several wonderful places close by, Lucca, Florence, Pietrasanta and Forte dei Marmi. I was looking for somewhere to go for an overnight stay. I decided on Vicenza, a town I have not been to…a good reason to go there to explore something new for me.

The trip involved a few train changes along the way. Vicenza is in northeastern Italy in the Veneto region. It is 60 kilometres west of Venice and 200 kilometres east of Milan.

Vicenzo is well known for its Palladian architecture. The town is home to 23 buildings designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio, 1508 – 1580. There are another 24 villas in the Veneto area. He was influenced by Roman and Greek architecture and is widely considered  to be one of the most influential individuals in the history of architecture. He was born in nearby Padova.

Vicenza is a thriving modern city in a historic setting. It is the third largest Italian industrial city and one of the wealthiest. Its textile and steel industries employ tens of thousands of people. One fifth of Italy’s gold and jewellery is made in Vicenza.

All this points to a very stylish city. The main piazza surrounded by Palladian buildings is stunning, even with part of it under scaffolding.

The view in the evening when the work vehicles have left is a better representation of the piaza.

The Basilica Palladiana with its clock tower and stunning loggias takes up almost one side of Piazza dei Signori. It was built on an existing 15th century Gothic building. Palladio was commissioned in 1549 to work on the building. He added the marble loggias. The copper lined roof, shaped like an inverted ship’s hull, was inspired by the Palazzo della Ragione in Padova.
Today it is a cultural centre hosting exhibitions and events.


Andrea Palladio stands guard at the end of the building in a small piazza.

Opposite is the Palazzo del Capitaniato, or Loggia Capitanio. It was designed by Palladio in 1565 and built in 1571 – 1572. It is currently used by the town council. It did not appear to be open when I was there.

 

There are 2 columns at one end of Piazza dei Signori. The older one dates from 1464 when Vicenza was controlled by the Venetian Republic. It is topped with the winged lion, the symbol of St Mark and of Venice. The second column dates from 1640 and it topped with a statue of Christ the Redeemer.




The first church I walked into was at the end of the piazza. Chiesa di Santa Maria in Foro. It was begun in 1404.

Chiesa San Lorenzo in Corso Fogazzaro, facing Piazza San Lorenzo, was begun in 1280 in a mix of Gothic and Lombard Romanesque styles.

It looks especially lovely at night.


There are lots of architectural delights in the streets of Vicenza.

 





 

This is one of the main entrances to the historical centre of the town, the way I walked into from the station.


Nearby is the entrance to the Salvi Garden. The garden is quite small, but there were lots of people circling the running track and school children exercising in groups. It is a well used park.


There is a small canal with another 2 Palladian buildings beside it.

 

Lots of water birds were enjoying this tranquil location. An orange duck thought he had found a treat, but decided against it.

I found some fun places to have coffee, aperitivo and dinner. I also found a delightful street lined with elegant shops. I will share those in the next post.

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