Posted by: Debra Kolkka | March 15, 2026

Cinema museum Turin

The Cinema Museum, Museo Nazionale del Cinema in Turin is housed in the incredible Mole Antonelliana tower. It is named after its architect, Alessandro Antonelli. A mole in Italian is a building of monumental proportions. This one certainly lives up to its name.

The building stands tall in Turin. I took this photo from across the Po River. It was a hazy day, so it is not a great photo.

Its contstruction began in 1863 and was completed in 1889, after the architect’s death. It was original meant to be a synagogue. The rising cost of construction and the declining Jewish population meant the city took over the project.

There were many difficulties involved in getting the complicated roof and spire, but it was eventually finished in April 1889 and was the tallest brick building in Europe at the time.

A close up is hard to get because the surrounding buildings are close.

Since 2000 the building has housed the Cinema Museum….come inside. The space inside is overwhelming. It is quite dark, much like being in a movie theatre.

There is a lot to take in on the ground floor.


There is a ramp on the inside edge of the dome, showing a history of cinema while climbing up. There are scenes from movies, movie clips, movie making equipment, photos of stars, movie posters, anything to do with movies.










There is a lift that takes visitors to the top where there is a viewing platform offering spectacular views over the city.



There are 2 separate tickets. You can buy one to see the museum and/or one for the lift. It is definitely worth doing both. Anyone remotely interested in cinema will find lots to enjoy.

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | March 13, 2026

Turin/Torino

Turin is a great city to walk in. It is flat, there is little traffic in the city centre and the footpaths are wide and many of them are covered.

I took the hop on hop off bus, a great way to get an overview of the city, especially one as large as Turin.

We drove past the Palatine Gate, Porta Palatina, and had to go back for a closer look. It is one of the world’s best preserved 1st century AD Roman gateways. There are also remains of an ancient theatre in the Archaeological Park.

The entry was built in the 1st century during the Augustan era and may predate the construction of the city gates. The gate served as an entry until the 11th century. It was meant to be torn down in the early 18th century in an urban renewal project. It was saved by architect and engineer Antonio Bertola. Well done Antonio!

I don’t know about you, but I find being able to stand beside an actual Roman wall, and touch the bricks (I did) absolutely amazing. I can imagine the workers going about their daily bricklaying, having no idea that their work would be admired centuries later. I wonder how many modern constructions will last for centuries.

The pair of bronze statues are copies and have been placed inside the gate, instead of outside which is more likely the correct position.


Not far from the Palantinc Gate is the Cathedral of John the Baptist.  It dates from the late 4th and early  5th centuries. I should have done a bit of research before walking past it. Inside, in a specialised, climate controlled, bulletproof case, sits the Shroud of Turin, where it has been since 1587. (not in that case, but in the church)


Maybe I didn’t miss too much. It is not visible to the public. You can, however, see the case…next time.

Walking a bit further I came upon another enormous building in the Piazza Palazzo di Citta,(city hall)  where I found the statue of the Green Count,  (Conte Verde) Armadeus VI Count of Savoy.



He was so named because he like to wear green, something we have in common,  In the 14th century he fought against the Turks and Bulgars for the Byzantine Empire.

I don’t know what this building is, but I like it.

This modern tower looks a little out of place. It turns out it is not all that new. It was built in 1933 – 34 to host, among other offices, the national headquarters  of the National Fascist Party. It didn’t happen. It became owned by Reale Mutual Assicurazioni, and insurance company, and it still is.

It is an example of early 20th century Italian rationalist architecture. Until 1940 it was the tallest continually habitable building in Italy.

The height of the building, next door to the Royal House of Savoy, was regarded as a statement of Facist dominance over the House of Savoy. It has been referred to as “an eyesore” , “the finger of Duce”, “the mobile phone” and the “arrogant building”. It does look a bit out of place with its neighbours.

I had one seriously good dinner in Turin. It was in the arcade with the cinema (previous post). As well as the excellent mini market, there is a cafe and upstairs, a restaurant. The setting is small and elegant and the service friendly.



Amuse-bouche.

Primi…scallops

 

Secondi…Agnolotti del Plin, the Piedmontese version of ravioli.

Dolce…carpaccio of pineapple over sour cherries and gelato…yum!


On my final morning I had to scoot to Cafe Al Bicerin for their special coffee. While I was waiting for it to open I poked my head into the Santuario della Consolata, opposite Al Bicerin, in the Piazza della Consolata.

It is quite small, but must surely be the most elaborately decorated space I have seen. It was originally dedicated to Sant’Andrea and was in existence in the 10th century. There have been additions over centuries.

 

Cafe al Bicerin was founded in 1763. It is famous for inventing its namesake drink, a traditional Piedmontese beverage, consisting of layered espresso, liquid chocolate and cream. The layers are not mixed, you sip slowly and carefully,  drawing the flavours through the cream. It is an art I would like to practice regularly. The hazelnut cake was good too.

The cafe is tiny and was a favourite spot of Count Cavour. Go early as I did or there might be a queue.

Here is a link to a post I wrote a few years ago about Cafe al Bicerin and another about Turin.

Al Bicerin – Torino

Torino

 

The next post will be about the cinema museum in an amazing building.

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | March 11, 2026

A visit to Turin

I have recently visited Turin for a few days. I have been before, mostly to see the Slow Food movement’s Salone del Gusto. I decided I needed to see more of the city.

Turin is the capital city of Piedmont in the north of Italy. It lies at the foothills (piedmont) of the alps. It is famous for grand architecture,  huge public squares, magnificent arcaded streets and stunning cafes.

Turin is huge and is full of big things. The station is huge.

 

 

Statues are huge.

I began my exploring in Piazza san Carlo, presided over by Duke Emanuele Filiberto on his horse.

The church of Santa Cristina and San Carlo Borromeo stand at one end.

 

It looks lovely at night.

I stopped on the edge of the piazza, under one of the elegant porticos, for coffee and a snack at 200 year old Caffe San Carlo. It has a restaurant, but mostly it is a coffee shop in a magnificent setting.

There have  been renovations since its creation, but the current one has worked around the 19th century Murano glass chandelier hanging in the centre of the room. It is said to be one of the largest in Europe. I see from some reviews that there is a queue to get in during the busy season. I was able to walk in and be seated without a wait… the benefits of travelling in March.

They have an all day menu. From this I ordered a toasted cheese sandwich. It rivalled the chandelier in size. It was delicious. I ate just the middle out of it and did not need to eat another thing all day.

The wide streets of Turin are lined with porticos, higher and wider than the ones in Bologna.



I found a stunning arcade with a cinema at the back. (closed)


The interior is very grand.

There is an amazing mini market in the arcade with a great selection of delicious goodies.

Walking further on I came to Piazza Castello, Turin’s main square. Here you will find the Royal Palace and gardens. It was originally built in the 16th century and modified by Christine Marie of France in the 17th century. In 1946 it became the property of the state and was turned into a museum.

The facade of the Palazzo Madama, facing Piazza Castello was mostly covered for renovation.

The other sides are spectacular.

I went in here so you don’t have to. This is one of the famous cafes of Turin, Caffe Mulassano. It is tiny and very cute. I arrived just as it opened. It was empty and I went to sit down. I was sharply directed to another table squeezed into the corner.
The coffee was excellent, as was the small croissant, beautifully served. If it had come with a side order of friendliness it would have been lovely, in spite of the €15 charge, but at no point was I made to feel welcome.



The good news is that there is another cafe almost next door, lovely without the attitude.

Stratta is much bigger and has a courtyard at the side, which would be excellent in warmer weather.

It had a much bigger selection and service with a smile.


I do expect to pay a premium price to sit in these exquisite places, but rudeness is never a good idea. Stratta was a much better option. They also have a restaurant with an excellent lunch and dinner menu.

This post is dragging on a bit. In the next posts I can show you a 1st century Roman gate, a Cinema museum in an incredible building, some stunning architecture, a special dinner and a very special coffee.

 

 

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | March 1, 2026

Return to Ponte a Serraglio

I am back in my second home in Ponte a Serraglio, our little part of Bagni di Lucca. I am enjoying the cool weather after the heat of Brisbane. This is what I wake up to.


The days are mostly warm and sunny as we move towards spring, I know the rain and cold can come back, so I am making the most of the pleasant weather.

Daffodils are blooming on my balcony and the iris is growing well. I have planted pansies in the pots and on the bridge.



I have been to lovely Lucca.

The magnolia trees are beginning to bloom. It won’t be long before the trees turn green.

I went with a friend to a seriously excellent pasticceria in Borgo Giannotti…Sandra & L’Angolo Dolce.  This must become a regular place to visit.



I love this tiny shop on Via Fillungo 59…Cosa Di. It is full of treasures.

There will be lots of trips to Lucca.

Pietrasanta was my next visit. It is one of my favourite nearby towns. There is always something interesting to see here.

Lunch at Ristorante Quarantuno never disappoints.

 

An overnight stay in Florence was great, apart from being caught in a train strike,

I always start my morning at Giacosa.

Some shop windows have excellent spring displays.

 


The Arno looks great even on an overcast day.

 


Menagere is my favourite place for lunch in Florence.

Wandering aimlessly in Florence is a joy.


…especially at night.




I did not need dinner, so it was back to Giacosa for aperitivo…a perfect end to the day.

I am heading to Torino for a couple of days this week. I have not been there for several years…time to return.

 

 

 

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | January 10, 2026

The end of and era in Vergemoli

Sisto, the music man of Vergemoli has died. To many, including me, he was the heart of Vergemoli. I’m not sure of his age, but he would have been around 90.

We no longer own Casa Debbio, the house we built in the village, but Sisto was always present in the 15 years we were involved there.

Sisto was very shy, but he did allow me to take his photo in 2013.

He lived a a house directly below Casa Debbio. We could only see it in the winter when the trees were bare, and then only glimpses.

The first time I became aware of Sisto was when I visited the building site of Casa Debbio and I came upon the builders laying bricks to the sound of tango music.

On investigation I found out that Sisto had speakers under the eaves of his house and on afternoons when the mood took him he liked to play music. He had old records with traditional Italian music, but tango seemed to be his favourite.

I walked down to find his house.


There were dozens of speakers under the eaves.


Once, several years ago, I went with a friend to Trassilico, a town on the other side of the valley from Vergemoli. We were surprised to hear Sisto’s music each time we came to a gap in the buildings. The speakers worked very well.

Sisto was a woodcutter and wood worker. His wood cutting equipment was originally powered by a waterfall behind his house. Most of the time I knew him he was still working and helped us on several occasions at Casa Debbio. I often saw him on the path to the house cutting and carrying huge loads of wood. He was small, but he was strong.

It was always wonderful to see the surprise on our visitors faces to hear music suddenly filling the valley. It was delightful and a huge part of the charm of Vergemoli.

Sisto will be missed. I truly hope that his music is not lost, that someone will keep his legacy alive and turn the music on sometimes.

 

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | January 1, 2026

Goodbye 2025

2025 has been a difficult year for the world. Crazy world leaders are causing havoc and misery. Unfortunately I can’t see 2026 being any better, I hope I am wrong.

I do feel guilty that I have a very comfortable life when so many others don’t. Anyway, here is my review of my privileged life in 2025.

I like to escape some of summer in Brisbane so I headed off in February to Italy, via Helsinki and Paris.

I love Helsinki in the winter, especially if it is covered in snow.

I had 4 days in beautiful Paris. I went to excellent exhibitions and did several tours of Le Bon Marche.

…and walked all over Paris.


Here are some posts from Paris in February.

Art and fashion at the Louvre

A serpent and doggie things at Le Bon Marche

Dolce & Gabbana in Paris

From Paris I went to our apartment in Bagni di Lucca. We have some gorgeous sunny winter days, and it is a joy to watch winter turn into spring.

 

It was fun watching the iris on my balcony bloom.

Back in Ponte a Serraglio,

I always go to the fabulous Viareggio Carnevale.

 

Carnevale Viareggio 2025

There are regular  trips to lovely Lucca 

and Florence.

…Pisa



Annalisa at Bar Italia closed for a week to expand and renovate. We were quite lost, but it was worth the wait. The new bar is great.



Lunch, dinner and aperitivo at La Ninfa in Ponte a Serraglio is fun.

Screenshot

We do lots of day trips and the occasional overnight stay.

Pienza is a favourite place to visit. We went with friends in early March.

Pienza and more

Orvieto is another place we keep going back to. In  April we stayed at a gorgeous hotel.

Orvieto revisited

In May we went with friends to San Gimignano, Siena and San Quirico d’Orcia.

 

San Gimignano, Siena and San Quirico d’Orcia

With the same friends we drove to nearby Lerici  and took the ferry to Portovenere.

Take the boat from Lerici to Portovenere

Later in May we went to England to meet friends. We went to Fowey in Cornwall.

Fowey in Cornwall

The visit included a day trip to Mevagissey 

 


Marvellous Mevagissey

We went north to Oxford to meet other friends and had day trips to delightful towns in the Cotswolds.

Beautiful Bibury

Cirencester, Capital of the Cotswolds

Tewkesbury, lunch and an Abbey

Stow on the Wold and England’s oldest inn

 

We spent some time in London.

Borough Market London

We went to Orkney for the Folk Music Festival.

Orkney Islands, Scotland

Cliffs, ruins and wildflowers on Orkney

Skara Brae in Orkney

In May we sold our beautiful Casa Debbio. It went from this…

 

…to this.

The house was sold to a couple who will love it as much as we did.

I won’t miss the drive up to the house, with its 8 kilometres of switchbacks, even though I usually had stop regularly to take in the magnificent view.

 

Then it was home to Brisbane for a while and regular daily life.There was a trip to Coolum with my son.

 

 

There was the fun of the Brisbane Fashion Festival.

Screenshot
Screenshot

Several trips to the GOMA in Brisbane.

In September I went back to Bagni di Lucca via Helsinki.

From Bagni di Lucca I visited Milan.

… Bologna.

…Pietrasanta.


…Vicenza

Vicenza, Palladio overload

Shopping and eating in Vicenza

I said goodbye to our apartment in October.

I went back to England to stay with my friends in Cambridge.

From there there were day trips to Bury St Edmonds.

Bury St Edmunds and the smallest pub in England

…Lavenham

Lovely lunch in Lavenham

From Cambridge I flew home via Paris.

With a friend i went to 2 excellent exhibitions at Arts Decoratifs.

Art in Paris

Back in Brisbane it was back to my sewing machine and days spent at Sarva, my friend’s shop.

I’m still sewing

Then it was Christmas.

Now it is 2026. Let’s hope it is a good year.

 

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | December 9, 2025

Lovely lunch in Lavenham

Lavenham is one of the best preserved medieval wool towns in England. It has a proud history of being one of the foremost cloth making centres in England from the 14th to the 16th century and was famous for its blue broadcloth. The many magnificent buildings that remain are a testimony to the town being one of the wealthiest in England at the time. By the late 15th century the town was among the the richest in the British Isles, paying more in taxation than larger towns like York and Lincoln.

Like many East Anglian settlements, Lavenham was home to an airfield in World War II.

The town is now one of the most beautiful villages in England. It blends the old with the new to make a modern, thriving community filled with charm and history….I visited with friends on an overcast May Day. Come for a walk through lovely Lavenham.

We first passed this great looking pub on our way to St Peter and St Paul church across the road.

We passed this beautiful pink house and walk through the cemetery to the church entrance.

The church dates from between 1486 and 1525. It was financed mainly through the contributions of several rich Lavenham clothiers, Lohan de Vere, Lord of the Manor and the 13th Earl of Oxford. It is excessively large for the size of the village. Its tower stands at 42 metres, making it the highest village church tower in Britain.




The interior is well preserved.

I was particularly impressed by this coat of arms.

The facade of the church has wonderful decoration.


Then it was off down the main street to discover more delights.

The gorgeous houses appear to fall into each other. I don’t think I saw a single right angle.


We saw some great doorways and street decoration and a lovely driveway.





We went to a seriously cute place for lunch. It was tiny, but packed with delights. The husband and wife team who own and run the place must work day and night to create this great space.

The dining room is small, just a handful of tables.

 

Menu was excellent. It was difficult to choose between the delicious sounding dishes. The owner/chef told us how he seeks out local produce to inspire is menu. We were all delighted with our lunch.

After lunch we were about to explore some of the inviting shops, when rain stopped play…

I would return to Lavenham if only for another delicious  lunch…and a bit more shopping.

Thank you Anup and Poorna for a great day out.

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | December 3, 2025

Bury St Edmunds and the smallest pub in England

Bury St Edmunds is a cathedral and market town in West Suffolk. I visited my lovely friends in Cambridge in May this year and we spent a day this beautiful town.

The town is best known for Bury St Edmunds Abbey and St Edmundsbury Cathedral. It was built on a grid pattern by Abbot Baldwin around 1080.  In 1214 the barons of England are believed to have met in the abbey church answers sworn to force King John to accept the Charter of Liberties, the document which influenced the creation of Magna Carta.’

Today it is known for brewing (Greene Kimg brewery) and a factory where Silver Spoon sugar is produced. We parked the car not far from a huge chimney sending clouds of steam into the air.

It was a short walk to through the Abbey Gardens to the town centre. The gardens were established in 1831. It was built on the site of the original botanical garden.

 


We came upon an internal garden in front of the ruins of the Abbey of St Edmunds, built in 1020, once the richest and most powerful Benedictine monasteries in England. The abbey’s importance led to its destruction. When Henry VIII closed the abbey in 1539, it was systematically demolished to demonstrate the king’s power and control. Apart from the abbot’s palace, the site was allowed to become a quarry for local building stone.


Most of the church was demolished, leaving the west front without its fine stonework. In the 18th century a number of houses were built within the shell. The remains of the original arches and the octagonal tower give an idea of what the original church would have looked like.



We left the courtyard through an arch into to Angel Hill St.

 


I love the facades of these old buildings.



We stopped at the information centre where an excellent guide gave us tips on what to see. We headed first to the St Edmundsbury Cathedral. It originated in the 11th century, was rebuilt in the 12th and 16th centuries and became a cathedral in 1914.

 

The font was designed in 1870 with decoration added in 1960.


The medieval stained glass ‘Susanna Window, has Flemish glass in the lower section and English glass at the top.


We went to The Nutshell, the smallest pub in England.

The claim to be the smallest in England has been disputed, but it is indeed tiny. It measures 4.57 metres x 2.13 metres and can hold 10 – 15 customers at one time. It has been trading since 1867

The decoration inside is interesting and includes the dried body of a dead cat, which was discovered in 1935 during building work. It is said to be 400 years old. In former times the bodies of cats were often placed inside the structure of buildings to bring good luck.

My favourite was the fox wearing sunglasses.

There is much more to keep your eyes busy darting around the room.


We enjoyed a beverage and a friendly chat with the bar attendant and a local who is a regular at the Nutshell. It was a fun visit.

Our next stop was the Cotswold Outdoor shop, one of the places the helpful woman at the information sent us to. She said there is a wooden pillar featuring carvings of Henry VIII and one of his wives. We walked in and could not see anything like this. I walked up a fabulous wooden staircase which turned out to be a replica of the original.

We asked a couple of attendants who knew nothing of the pillar. Finally one of them googled it and discovered it is in the corner window in the front of the shop. Before the Google search it had been suggested that we go back to the information centre to check the location. It is quite likely that it is not Henry VIII but another historical figure. I searched for more information and came up with no reference to Henry.

Anyway, here is the pillar. I think it is impressive regardless of who it is.

Abbeygate Street is lined with interesting shops and cafes.

Corn Exchange Wetherspoons is said to be the most beautiful Wetherspoons pub in England. I can’t comment as I have not been in another one, but it is certainly is impressive. I do like and English pub lunch.


On the way back to the car we spotted a group of pigeons gathering on a roof top, who knows why.


Thank you Anup for a great visit to Bury St Edmunds!

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | November 20, 2025

I’m still sewing

I have now been sewing for 60 years. My mother made our clothes when we were children, but by the time I was about 12 she became a bit too busy, so I learned to sew myself. I remember Mum taking me to buy fabric and a pattern.

Her idea of teaching me to sew involved opening the pattern and telling me to follow the instructions. She said she would help me if I got stuck. I got stuck on the zip, so she put that in for me. My first dress was made.

I made most of my clothes when I was a teenager and made things for my friends too. A dress would be made on Saturday morning to be worn out that night. I made all of my son’s clothes until he was old enough to want things from the shop like the other boys.

I sewed most of the clothes I sold in the shop I had in the Brisbane Arcade for 20 years. Now I am lucky that my friend Savva lets me use space in his shop to sell the things I make. I have a room full of fabric to work through and I like to make things, so I am still sewing.

Here are some of the things I have made lately. I make clothes that are easy to wear and suit our sub tropical climate. I only work in cotton and linen for summer. I also make tablecloths, napkins, tote bags, cushions and other small things.

 

 

 



I am slowly working through the mountain of fabric I have collected over the years. The mountain doesn’t seem to be decreasing, possibly because I keep finding new pieces. I only make a few things in each fabric, sometimes a one off. New things appear in the shop each day.

Sarva is at 239 Boundary St, West End, Brisbane. (cnr Corbett St) I will be in the shop from Tuesday to Saturday from 10.00 – 1.30 until I go back to Italy. Drop in if you are nearby. Savva does excellent made to measure and alterations, another reason to come to see us.

 

 

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | November 1, 2025

Art in Paris

On my way home from Italy I stayed in Paris for a couple of days. I was there the first day of the Art Deco exhibition at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs. Art Deco is my favourite style era, so after a friend sorted the ticket issue, we went to the exhibition.

The first exhibit was a recreation of some Orient Express train carriages. What fun it would have been to travel in such luxury!


I think this rug would fit perfectly at my house.


As would everything else I liked, especially this chair.


…and all of these lovely things.

 


 




There was a Paul Poiret exhibition on in the same museum. He was a French master couturier during the first 2 decades of the 20th century. He was born in 1879 and died in 1944.






 


Thee were a few items designed by more recent designers in the spirit of Poiret.



Poiret’s fashion house declined when Chanel and other designers came along with more simple clothing…things change.


The Bourse de Commerce was originally used as a place to negotiate the trade of grain and other commodities, and used to provide services to businesses by the Paris chamber of Commerce during the latter part of the 20th century. It is now a modern art museum housing the contemporary art from Francois Pinault’s collection.


There is usually a temporary exhibition in the central room. I am very sorry I missed the water pool earlier this year. The current one was not the reason for my visit.


The building itself is a work of art.

The frieze inside the dome is a historical 19th century painting depicting scenes of international trade and commerce. It has been recently restored.




Don’t miss the 18th century double helix staircase!

Coffee might not be art, but this new coffee destination could  be called art. I came upon Copains Rive Gauche at 68 Rue Saints-Peres and immediately stopped for coffee and a financier.


Coffee and a pastry in Paris is now around €14 in many places. That is quite a bit more than the coffee and sfoglia I have at Bar Italia across the bridge from my apartment in Bagni di Lucca. It is a steal at €2.40 and is every bit as delicious.

Food can be art too. My favourite place to have lunch is Lucien Le Grande in the gorgeous Galerie Vivienne, one of the most beautiful covered passageways in Paris. The luxurious walkway was built in 1823. I recommend a walk through even if you don’t stop for lunch.

Originally a gourmet grocery store, Lucien Le Grande opened in 1880 and 5 generations later it is now an iconic destination in Paris for gourmet food and fine wine. The wine cellar showcases wine from all over the world from over 370 winemakers.


Delicious food in a delightful setting. (More than 1 lunch)

This Dries Van Noten clutch was seen in the window of the shop. It is definitely art.

Rick Owens boots seen through window of the shop might be a bit difficult to wear, but are definitely works of art.


I will finish wth some beautiful public art in the Palais Royale.

There is much to love in Paris.

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