We visit the wonderful thermal springs in Saturnia regularly. We decide to try a different area and thought the Bagni San Filippo looked interesting. We booked to stay a night in the village and after an excellent visit to Siena we set off for our usual drive through the gorgeous Tuscan hills.
The village of Bagni San Filippo is small with not much to see. Our accommodation was quite close to the thermal springs, just a short walk downhill. After leaving the road, the track to the springs is rough. It isn’t really a proper track, just several tracks made by lots of feet treading their way to the water.
We were lucky there had not been a lot of rain recently or the various paths would have been muddy as well as haphazard.
The thermal spring area looks quite impressive. There are a couple of places where it is easy to access the warm pools, but many are more difficult to get to.
We stepped into the biggest pool and sat under the falling water, which was barely warm.
We were there late in the day so there were few other people around. It would not be great if the pools were full.
Nothing appeared to be open in the village in the evening so we drove to nearby San Quirico d’Orcia, which we have visited before. It is a delightful town and we found the excellent restaurant, Trattoria Toscana, where we ate last time.
We were not disappointed.
The town was quiet on the way out.
The next morning we found nothing open in Bagni San Filippo so we went to Pienza for breakfast.
The springs are free. There is public parking, for which you will pay €1.50 an hour, all through the town. There are no facilities to change at the springs, so you must go prepared.
We didn’t like Bagni San Filippo. This doesn’t happen often on our Italian travels, but this place did not appeal at all. We will stick to Saturnia in the future. It is easier to get to, the water is warmer and the nearby town of Saturnia is lovely.
How disappointing – as you say doesn’t happen often
By: Elizabeth Valerie Litzow on April 4, 2023
at 8:44 pm
No, it doesn’t. The lovely towns nearby made up for it.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 5, 2023
at 4:15 am
Thanks for the honest review. Saturnia is well known and I’ve always wanted to visit. As usual your photos are fantastic both the calcified thermal waters and the Tuscan hillsides. I have been to and have famiglia in San Quirico (if its the same S.Q. that’s over the mountain from Colognora 🙂).
By: Doug Petroni on April 4, 2023
at 9:37 pm
Saturnia is great fun and the town is interesting too. This San Quirico is near Pienza, so perhaps a different town.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 5, 2023
at 4:16 am
I love San Quirico. A few years ago we were staying in Montepulciano for a week and our landlord recommended SQ. We found it delightful and had a fantastic lunch in the back garden of the restaurant. Such a nice memory.
By: MAREE on April 4, 2023
at 10:09 pm
It is a lovely town in one of the most beautiful areas in Italy.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 5, 2023
at 4:18 am
The photos of the surrounding hills just so green & lovely. A pity your thermal springs were a disappointment.
By: Camillus Davall on April 4, 2023
at 10:47 pm
The area is simply gorgeous. We won’t go back to the thermal springs, but will certainly be back to the towns nearby.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 5, 2023
at 4:19 am
Sounds like a real adventure – wonderful photos enjoy 🤗
By: Helen Close on April 5, 2023
at 3:35 am
If you can call trudging along a crummy track to not very warm thermal springs an adventure! The lovely towns nearby made it all OK.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 5, 2023
at 4:21 am
Thank you for the advice, Deb.
By: mulinodominillo on April 5, 2023
at 4:56 am
We were a bit disappointed, but the other lovely places made up for it.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 5, 2023
at 6:59 am
I think Saturnia is visually stunning – I just didn’t like the smell & feel of the water – the view looking down is gorgeous
By: Elizabeth Valerie Litzow on April 6, 2023
at 12:35 am
The smell doesn’t bother me and the lovely warm water falling on your shoulders is great.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 6, 2023
at 5:31 am