Portovenere is on the Ligurian coast, between La Spezia and Riomaggiore, the southern most of the Cinque Terre. It sits at the base of the steep slopes of Muzzerone, a rocky mountain covered with olive and pine trees. The town is watched over by the tower of the old citadel. I could go on, but mostly Portovenere is just plain beautiful.
beautiful Portovenere
the old citadel keeps watch
The town is about 2 hours drive from Bagni di Lucca. It is autostrada most of the way, but the last bit takes you on the longest 11 kilometre drive you will ever do. The road is narrow and winds its way along the coast through a couple of small towns. Cars are parked in the most inconvenient places and there is way too much traffic for these little roads. It must be hell in summer.
Once you arrive and park the car all will be forgiven when you feast your eyes on this gorgeous little place.
There is a little shopping street which winds its way through the village behind the waterfront restaurants and shops. There are the usual souvenir shops and cute little restaurants, if you can drag yourself away from the seaside ones. The area is known for its pesto, and there are places where you can buy this delicious topping for pasta ( and other things). I recommend taking some home to try. If you love basil, you will love this.
the entrance to the shopping street
lots of treasures to be found
seaside souvenirs
local anchovies
delicious pesto
a boutique just for pesto
looking down to the sea
At the end of the street you come out to another spectacular view – St Peter’s church from 1256.
St Peter's
inside the old church
the view from the church
looking up to the citadel
looking along the coast from the church
pigeons enjoying the autumn sun
Byron's grotto
This is where Byron dived into the sea and swam to Lerici, a fair distance across the Bay of La Spezia, no doubt showing off to someone.
here is where he dived in
the church fits well into the rocky headland
In summer boats will take you along the coast from Portovenere to Cinque Terre and Portofino. All of these places are wonderful and the best way to see them is from the water. On a good day it would be hard to beat this part of Italy.
You are killing me! This looks so fabulous. I haven’t been here yet but another to add to the list. God, LOVE THE PESTO. I am such a pesto freak but eating lots of basil improves your appetite and this is not what I need. Thanks for such a fabulous post Deb. It is amazing. Don’t you just love being an Italophile?
By: Moira on November 9, 2010
at 9:19 pm
Another place to put on my list, love how the pesto is so green – usually when in a bottle it darkens.
By: Roz on November 9, 2010
at 9:37 pm
This pesto is the best I have ever tasted. I wish I had brought some home. I bought some yesterday and it was miserable in comparison. I have bought a mortar and pestle and I am going to make my own.
By: bagnidilucca on November 9, 2010
at 9:40 pm
I was thinking about that word this morning too- Italophile. I am proudly.
What a gorgeous church. There are so many amazing places to go, it’s hard nominating one area to concentrate on.
By: cityhippyfarmgirl on November 10, 2010
at 1:49 am
Oh yes it looks beautiful… It was one of my favourite places this year…. And you have captured the area so beautifully in your photo’s…. For others who are planning to go to italy yes do put this on your schedule…. worth seeing…
By: realme07 on November 10, 2010
at 2:17 am
Waw Beautiful! It reminds me a little bit of Mont Saint Michel in Normandie, especially the shopping street.
THanks Deb!
Mirella
By: mirellamccracken on November 10, 2010
at 5:24 am
We’ll be there!
Thanks Deb
By: Ann Paxton-Hall on November 10, 2010
at 8:06 am
That looks amazing! But how do you tear your eyes away from the waterview?
By: Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella on November 10, 2010
at 9:24 am
With great difficulty!
By: bagnidilucca on November 10, 2010
at 9:34 am
Now there’s one more place on my “must visit” list-thanks for sharing your photos on this beautiful spot.
By: paninigirl on November 10, 2010
at 3:28 pm
I thought I had seen Portovenere, but…there seems to be a lot more!!!! Reason to go back!!!!
By: rosi on November 10, 2010
at 5:14 pm
Ahhh beautiful! I wish I had stopped here while I was in the Cinque Terre for three days in June. Your photographs really capture the essence of the town. Thanks for sharing. New subscriber!
By: Hart's All Over the World on November 10, 2010
at 10:25 pm
Thank you for your comments, and signing up. I love it when people comment. The whole coastline here is spectacular. You will have to go back and visit Portovenere.
By: bagnidilucca on November 10, 2010
at 10:42 pm
Wow – such beautiful photos. What an amazing place. I am always drawn towards the sea, and the Italian coast line is spectacular. This is one of my mom’s favourite places and I would love to visit one day as well.
By: turid on November 18, 2010
at 4:13 pm
Portovenere is beautiful, you have to go.
By: bagnidilucca on November 18, 2010
at 9:23 pm
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at 10:28 am
[…] here to see lovely Portovenere and the pesto […]
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[…] Portovenere on the Ligurian coast and buy some pesto from the specialist pesto shop there. Click here to take a […]
By: Ligurian pasta – Australian style « Bagni di Lucca and Beyond on June 10, 2011
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Thank you for the return trip to Portovenere!! Several years ago my nephew and I visited the town (along with a boat ride) and dined at one of the open air restaurants under the umbrellas (as seen in one of the photos), along with one of the best seafood meals I’ve ever had and a gentleman playing a guitar while singing local songs Portovenere proved to be the Italy of legend. The photos are beautiful, again thank you.
By: Gian Banchero on June 11, 2011
at 10:35 pm
We love Portovenere and go as often as we can. You are right, it is Italy at its best.
By: bagnidilucca on June 11, 2011
at 11:02 pm
[…] is one in Portovenere of a completely different style. Click here to see […]
By: Burano, the beautiful fishing village in Venice. « Bagni di Lucca and Beyond on January 28, 2012
at 1:52 am
Stunning photos! We have changed boats at Portovenere a number of times when returning to Lerici from the Cinque Terre. Having to rush to the last boat, which is waiting for us, we always lament that there’s no time to explore Portovenere.
You’ve convinced us that it’s time to make the time!!!
Thank you.
By: CherfromSydney on January 28, 2012
at 2:15 am
i linked the wrong one here, and I have fixed it, but isn’t Portovenere fabulous.
By: Debra Kolkka on January 28, 2012
at 2:17 am
Portovenere is one of our favourite places to visit. It is not too far away from Bagni di Lucca, so it is a fairly easy day trip.
By: Debra Kolkka on January 28, 2012
at 5:29 am
[…] Portovenere […]
By: On the Villages | A Frank Angle on May 9, 2013
at 1:35 am
Do you know the name of the shop that sells Olive Oil, Seasoned Salts, jars of bruschetta toppings?
By: DS on June 9, 2013
at 11:48 am
There are a few shops in Portovenere that sell these things. Unfortunately I don’t know the name of any of them.
By: Debra Kolkka on June 10, 2013
at 7:14 pm
[…] PS Fellow blogger Debra Kolkka has written extensively on Porto Venere. For example, see her post at https://bagnidilucca.wordpress.com/2010/11/09/portovenere/ […]
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at 11:06 pm