Posted by: Debra Kolkka | March 28, 2016

Reading a train ticket

You might think this would be easy, but every time I get on a Freccia Rossa, Freccia Bianca or  Freccia Argento (Red Arrow, White Arrow or Silver Arrow) there is confusion over the seating arrangements.

These fast trains, which can travel at speeds of 250 kilometres per hour, are run by Trenitalia. They were previously called Eurostar Italia, but the name changed in 2012.

The whole thing can be very confusing for a first timer. You are in a bit of a rush, you have too much luggage and everything is unfamiliar. You can buy a ticket from the sales counter (expect a long wait) or from the automatic machines, a much speedier way to do it.

Here is the ticket you will most likely receive.

Train ticket

 

The circled and numbered items on the ticket are what you need to look for.

  1. This is the train number. Look for this on the departures notice board to see which platform (binario) your train leaves from. Your destination may not be the final destination of the train.
  2. Carozza is your carriage number, most important. If you get in the wrong carriage you will probably find someone sitting in your seat.
  3. Posti is your seat number. It will also tell you if you have a window seat, in this case, or an aisle seat.

There is no need to validate these tickets as they have a time and date.

You do need to validate tickets for regional trains as they are not dated and you can use them any time or date. The tickets will look similar, but there won’t be a carriage or seat number.

Train ticket

The validation machines should be near the entrance to the platforms. If you don’t validate your ticket you risk a fine.

I have a funny train story I’m sure my friend won’t mind me sharing. My friend’s son was due to arrive in Bagni di Lucca from Rome. His time of arrival came and went. I bit later there was a phone call. She said “Where are you?” He replied “I’m still in Rome. I wanted to catch the train to Florence. The bastards have changed the name to Firenze and I’m still here.” He did eventually arrive.

Posted by: Debra Kolkka | March 26, 2016

Chocolate frogs

My lovely friend who lives in Germany gave me these beautiful Lindt chocolate frogs for Easter. I love frogs and I love chocolate, what could be better?

Chocolate frogs

They are too pretty to eat!

I hope you are all having a great Easter.

Posted by: Debra Kolkka | March 24, 2016

The donkeys appear

The crowds began to gather quite early in the afternoon for the Palio dei Somari…the donkey race. Festivities were not to commence until 4.00pm, but the seats in the stands filled quickly and early. I went an hour early thinking that would be plenty of time, but was lucky to get a seat. As it turned out I didn’t have it for long. I stood up to watch the entry of the entourage and the others in my row spread out and my seat disappeared. It didn’t really matter as everyone was soon on their feet so as not to miss anything.

You might be surprised to hear that the event began with some ceremony. The sbandieratori and tamburini were back with the rest of the troops. They walked the length of the track and gathered in the area in the centre. The enthusiastic crowd welcomed them.

Palio dei Somari

The master of ceremonies welcomed everyone and the donkeys arrived with their escorts.

Palio dei Somari

Palio dei Somari

The first award was announced. The blue team Refenero won something, but I couldn’t understand what it was. The cheers were fairly subdued, so it clearly wasn’t one of the main ones.

Palio dei Somari

Children from each contrade came on stage and there was a draw to select a donkey for each team. The donkeys, with names including Malda and Veronica, were given a rosette  in the colours of the contrade to wear. They seemed unconcerned.

Palio dei Somari

There were 4 heats with 2 donkeys and riders in each. The winner would be the first to complete 3 laps. The donkeys and riders arrived at the starting line. The riders were patted down, to check for…I don’t know what.

They were off!  In a way…a donkey race is not much like a horse race where the horses usually move in one direction quite quickly. Donkeys do their own thing. They trot forwards for a while, stop, turn around and perhaps even walk backwards. I wanted to laugh, but I noticed that nobody else was. This is a serious business.

Palio dei Somari

The 4 losers of the first heats came back for a second chance. Once again they completed 3 laps.

There was a break where the groups from the contrade returned and the winners of the award for best tamburini and sbandieratori were announced. The professional team were called in to present the trophies.

Porto Pago (the red and green team) won best tamburini to much excitement.

Palio dei Somari

Cavone, the green team won best sbandieratori. I wasn’t surprised, they were spectacular, in every way. There was much cheering, kissing and jumping up and down.

 

Palio dei Somari

Time for the race final. This time 5 donkeys and their riders lined up. The winner would be the first to complete 4 laps of the circuit.

Palio dei Somari

The rider from Gavone fell of at the end of the first round. He had to stand and watch his donkey run off by herself.

The race continued with the usual donkey antics with the riderless donkey in the lead.

She went on to win, it seems the rider is not needed to win the race…a little surprise, and a second win for Gavone.

Palio dei Somari

The crowd erupted and everyone from the contrade moved in to join the excitement.

Palio dei Somari

This event is one of the most fun things I have attended in Italy. It was very well run, all information was excellent, but most of all I am impressed by how Italians (I heard no foreign accents all weekend) behave at these events. There is no alcohol, no bad behaviour, everyone just joins in and has a great time. The ticket to the actual race was €8, everything else was free.

I will be back next year to see it all again and I will try to stay again at Casa dei Fiori. It was the perfect place to be.

 

Posted by: Debra Kolkka | March 22, 2016

Sbandieratori, Tamburini and more

I know I said this post would be about the donkey race, but the festivities that went on before were so fabulous I want to share them with you. The costumes alone are worthy of their own post, before I even get to the spectacle that is flag throwing.

The competition among the 8 contrade (districts of Torrita di Siena) is fierce. On Saturday night all the spectacle that the town could muster was on show in Piazza Matteotti, the lovely square in the middle of town.

First into the piazza was the band, people of all ages.

Palio dei Somari

Then came the competitors. There were 2 sbandieratori (flag throwers) and 2 tamburini (drummers) in each team.  Prizes are given to both the drummers and the throwers. The costumes were stunning and the participants were very athletic. Winners are announced at the Palio on Sunday.

Palio dei Somari

Palio dei Somari

Palio dei Somari

Palio dei Somari

Palio dei Somari

There was also an exhibition by an amazing troup, who looked very professional.

Palio dei Somari

The evening finished with a bit of fire breathing, just to add to the spectacle.

Palio dei Somari

Sunday morning’s activities were even more spectacular. The entourage of each contrade made their entrance into the piazza, led by 2 knights, a flag bearer and the band.

Palio dei Somari

Palio dei Somari

Palio dei Somari

Palio dei Somari

Palio dei Somari

Palio dei Somari

Palio dei Somari

Palio dei Somari

Palio dei Somari

Palio dei Somari

Everyone filed into the church for mass. They returned to the piazza for the most exciting part…the sbandieratori and tamburini display.

Palio dei Somari

Palio dei Somari

Palio dei Somari

Palio dei Somari

Palio dei Somari

After the magnificent display everyone took their places for the parade through the town. I told you my apartment was close to the action, that is my front door behind the participants.

Palio dei Somari

At last the final person disappeared down the street and it was time to have some lunch and get ready for the main event.

The next post will have donkeys.

 

 

 

Posted by: Debra Kolkka | March 19, 2016

Run donkey run

I am in Torrita di Siena for the Palio dei Somari. Torrita di Siena is a well preserved hilltop town not far from the Autostrada and on the way to Siena.

Torrita di Siena

Not to be outdone by their slightly more famous neighbour, in 1966 the townspeople of Torrita di Siena began the Palio dei Somari…the donkey Palio.

I arrived  the day before the race to get the lay of the land and to find good positions to see the parade that will go through the town tomorrow. I had time to wander through the narrow streets bedecked with the flags of the various contrade…the areas of town competing in the race.

Torrita di Siena

There are some gorgeous views of the Tuscan hills from the edges of town.

Torrita di Siena

I was really lucky with my choice of place to stay. It is a lovely little apartment, called Casa dei Fiori right on the path for the parade and less than 50 metres from the piazza where the celebrations will begin with flag throwing and drummers. The owners are delightful and they are going to show me some of the other apartments tomorrow, so you can all come next year for the Palio.

I got to watch some of the participants practising this afternoon.

Torrita di Siena

Torrita di Siena

This is where the race will be run tomorrow afternoon…I have my ticket.

Torrita di Siena

Torrita di Siens

Here is a photo of a photo from a vantage point that I won’t have. This is the piazza where the festivities will begin.

Torrita di Siena

…and some old photos of the race and the donkeys.

There will be an exhibition later tonight and I will be there…I love a bit of flag throwing and drums.

The streets are getting dark.

Torrita di Siena

I will be jostling for a position in front of the bar. The next post will be the celebrations…and the race.

Torrita di Siena

Posted by: Debra Kolkka | March 16, 2016

Clean with your feet

I found these slippers in Lucca the other day when I was attempting to renew my Permesso di Soggiorno.

New slippers

Did you notice those bits sticking out of the soul?

New slippers

They are actually mops to clean your floor as you walk around, talk about time saving!

new slippers

They are stuck on with Velcro and come off to wash…a new era in floor cleaning. I can imagine that I will be shuffling through the house with new vigour…don’t you love my hundred year old floor tiles?

 

Posted by: Debra Kolkka | March 12, 2016

Antique market Arezzo

On the first Sunday and the preceding Saturday of each month the Piazza Grande in Arezzo fills with collections of old furniture, household items, pots, linen, art…all kinds of treasures. The antique market began in 1968 and now attracts exhibitors from all over Italy, up to 500 in good weather.

Arezzo is a fabulous city, so I didn’t need much of an excuse to revisit. I am on the hunt for special items for the garden at Casa Debbio. It is still too early to begin planting, but not too early to find some old terracotta pots, or a sculpture or two.

The main part of the market is in Piazza Grande, but it spreads all through the town as well. We arrived on Saturday afternoon and the weather was awful, windy and raining. Most of the stalls had closed for the day. Lucky for us the sun came out on Sunday morning and we set out early…come for a wander through the market stalls in Arezzo.

Antique market Arezzo

Arezzo antique market

Arezzo antique market

Arezzo antique market

Arezzo antique market

As we were admiring the market delights we heard drumming and soon after a procession headed towards us. I have no idea what it was all about, but I love these moments in Italy.

Arezzo antique market

Arezzo antique market

There was a barber putting on a fine performance in the Piazza Grande.

Arezzo antique market

Some birds were enjoying the blue sky…perhaps they were looking for bargains from above.

Birds, blue sky

We stayed again at La Corte del Re, a great little hotel right on the corner of Piazza Grande. Here is the early morning view from the window.

Arezzo early morning

I’m sure you will ask if I bought anything. The answer is yes and no. I didn’t buy anything at the market, but I returned to a shop we visited last year where we had fallen in love with a terra cotta table and bench seat. They were very expensive and we left them behind. The shop no longer wants to sell large items and these two pieces were going for a song…this time I couldn’t resist them. I will show you how gorgeous they are when they are installed at Casa Debbio.

Look for the shop if you are in Arezzo. It is called Arete and it is in Piazza Grande.

Arete Arezzo

The antique market in Arezzo is well worth a visit. It is a fun spectacle as much as anything. Stay the weekend and really take the time to enjoy the town as well.

Posted by: Debra Kolkka | March 9, 2016

Snow

We have had mixed weather recently, rain, sun and now snow. I woke up yesterday to lightly falling snow. I could see it from my balcony.

Ponte a Serraglio

I bought a gorgeous table in Arezzo on the weekend and it needed to be delivered to Casa Debbio, so we loaded up the truck and headed off, despite the inclement weather. The higher we went into the mountains, the more snow there was.

Mountains

mountains

Mountains

Mountains

Mountains

 

Vergemoli looks gorgeous with its covering of snow.

Vergemoli

The road to Casa Debbio was covered with about 20cm of snow. The truck was never going to get all the way to the house, so we unloaded the table top and left it beside the fence and carried the rest to the house. The garden Casa Debbio is snow covered.

Casa Debbio

Casa Debbio

 

Casa Debbio

Casa Debbio

Casa Debbio

Casa Debbio

Casa Debbio

My poor flowers are covered with snow. I hope they will be OK.

The snowy view is lovely.

Casa Debbio

Casa Debbio

Casa Debbio

 

The weeping cherry is wearing a little hat.

Casa Debbio

Mist started to roll in as we left.

 

Casa Debbio

Casa Debbio

Casa Debbio

Primulas along the road seem to be surviving.

Casa Debbio

The tracks in the road behind us won’t be there for long.

Casa Debbio

The snow will soon be gone…I’m hoping the garden will bounce back quickly.

Posted by: Debra Kolkka | March 8, 2016

Friends of San Filippino

I was introduced to Rita Richardson by my blogging friend Margie Miklas. Rita fell in love with hilltop Tuscan town Castiglion Fiorentino a few years ago and bought her little piece of the village. She visits from America several times a year. It is a beautiful town…

Castiglion Fiorentino

For years she walked down her street without noticing the abandoned Oratorio San Filippino. It is easy to see why, the door is firmly closed and there is not much evidence of what lies inside.

 
San Filippino Castiglion Fiorentino

One day she discovered what had been hidden for decades and decided something needed to be done to bring this exquisite little church back to life. She has created Friends of San Filippino with like minded people to raise money to allow the church to be restored.

I was lucky enough to to meet Rita and some of her friends in Castiglion Fiorentina and visit the church. We entered through the sacristy.

San Filippino Castiglion Fiorentino

Our guide, Edoardo, showed us remains of the frescoes on the vaulted ceiling and inside a little alcove in the wall.

San Filippino Castiglion Fiorentino

San Filippino Castiglion Fiorentino

In the 17th century Baroque Oratorio there are many beautiful features enduring despite years of neglect. It was one of the first oratories established in Tuscany by San Filippo, known as Saint Philip Neri.

San Filippino Castiglion Fiorentino

The beautiful wooden ceiling is in dire need of repair.

San Filippino Castiglion Fiorentino

San Filippino Castiglion Fiorentino

Several pieces of art have been removed for safe keeping, but not much can be done with the sculptures and stone altar until proper restoration begins.

San Filippino Castiglion Fiorentino

San Filippino Castiglion Fiorentino

At the back of the church are the rooms where the people of the church lived. It is also hoped that these rooms can be restored and made available to members of the public. We could only see from the outside as the floors are crumbling and dangerous.

San Filippino Castiglion Fiorentino

San Filippino Castiglion Fiorentino

As well as saving San Filippo the main goal of the group is to create a model for others who want to restore important landmarks and help revitalise small towns throughout Italy…every small town in Italy has at least one gorgeous old building just waiting for someone to come along and love it and want to bring it back to life.

It was great to meet Rita and Eduardo and the lovely Texan friends of San Filippino. I wish them the best of luck with this very ambitious project.

Rita and Edoardo

Please visit the website of Friends of San Filippo, sign up for the newsletter and help if you can. Share the post on Facebook…spread the word.

http://www.friendsofsf.org

 

 

Posted by: Debra Kolkka | March 4, 2016

Sometimes Italy is ridiculous

I have to renew my Permesso di Soggiorno every year. I dread this. A couple of times everything has gone through smoothly, but this is not usually the case.

Yesterday I went to Lucca to the office that helps me with my application. The girls there know me now, and are always helpful. The forms were filled out, I went to the Tabacchi to purchase the stamp duty to attach to the form…then it was off to the post office.

The system to select the type of transaction has changed and I chose the incorrect one. The man at the counter informed me that I had made a mistake and I went back to get the correct number. Not five minutes later I was recalled to the same desk…a bit silly but OK. I was happy to be served so quickly.

He looked at my paper work, looked through all my photocopied passport pages and then asked ME how much I had to pay to process the Permesso. I replied that it should be him telling me how much it cost.  After all I didn’t go to the butcher shop to process my paper work. I went to the official post office where this is done.

He claimed not to know, asked another post office worker, who also claimed not to know. They both informed me that it was my responsibility to know how much I had to pay. I have renewed my Permesso 6 or 7 times and this particular trick has never come up before. The price seems to change regularly, so how could I know what it is?

I found out later that  my friend who applied recently had the same experience, but when she told them she didn’t know, they miraculously decided they did know the fee.

The situation is ridiculous. If they don’t have a list with the scheduled feesfor their own services, why don’t they? If I got treatment like this in Australia I would ask to speak to a supervisor, but in Italy we are at the mercy of a crummy public servant who hates his job and loves to wield a bit of power. Upset them at your peril.

Anyway, the man I was dealing with refused to find out and I had to go back to the other side of town to ask for help from the girl who helped me with the application.  She went online and got the fee for me and I went back to the post office.

This time I had to wait one hour for my turn. It then appeared  that when the original post office worker had looked at my passport pages he managed to get them out of order. My new helpful assistant threw them at me and demanded that I get them in order. Next time I must remember to staple them together…another lesson learned.

It was finally done, my paperwork was processed and I have an appointment with the Questura in a few weeks…the next trial awaits.

For the record I was charged €107.50 for the application and €30 by the post office for their excellent service.

People talk of the excessive beurocracy in Italy. I don’t think the rules and regulations are the big problem. I think the main issue is that many people in official positions can’t, or don’t want to do their jobs. I think they deliberately give people a hard time in the hope they will just go away.

You could lose the will to live in an Italian post office. It is just as well Italy is beautiful and we can forgive it for almost anything.

PS. When I went to the Questura I was informed that I had paid €20 too much. To get the refund I had to submit a form and attach a stamp which costs about €16…I didn’t bother.

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