On a glorious spring day we decided to visit Portovenere. It was a public holiday and knowing the shortage of close parking in Portovenere, we left early in the morning and parked in nearby Lerici. There is a carpark at the top of the town, just before the ZTL, the limited traffic area. If you happen to stray into one of these areas expect a hefty fine to come your way.
It was a short walk from the carpark to the waterfront where the boat departs. It is easy to spot and we soon had our tickets and found seats at the top of the boat. It was a perfect day for the 30 minute ride to Portovenere.
Lerici looked magnificent under a bright blue sky.
Portovenere never disappoints. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, like the Cinque Terre a little further north. We arrived early so there were few people about. That changed quickly and by the time we left a few hours later the town was crowded.
We walked along the waterfront to the Church of St Peter. It was built over an existing 5th century Paleo-Christian church and consecrated in 1198. The new part with black and white stripes was added in the 13th century.

The Doria Castle, high above Portovenere, is an example of military architecture and has changed over the centuries with military developments.
Lord Byron famously dived in the water below this spot to swim across the Gulf of La Spezia to visit his friend Shelley in Lerici. I prefer to take the boat.


I always stop by to say hello to the lonely, waiting woman.

Portovenere has an excellent selection of restaurants, cafes and shops. The shops sell interesting and good quality products, many things made locally. I dare you to leave empty handed!
Learn to make pesto here.


At the very least you need to try, and buy, locally made, delicious Ligurian pesto. I did try and buy, and we had it with pasta last night.
We also could not resist these pastries, we bought one of each flavour, lemon, hazelnut and pistachio. All were great.
Leaving Portovenere…for now.

We took the boat back to Lerici to find most restaurants full! It happens on public holidays when the sun shines. Luckily we did not starve and enjoyed local seafood…perfect.


…a walk back to the car, seeing places to explore on our next visit.
































Debra,
Thank you very much for this and all your most interesting articles on places to visit.
Hope to meet you again in Bagni!
Regards
Mary
By: Mary Belton on May 9, 2025
at 7:25 pm
There are many wonderful places to visit near Bagni di Lucca. We are very lucky!
By: Debra Kolkka on May 10, 2025
at 2:15 am
Love your articles. I bought a jar of Ligurian pesto in my local (very country) IGA last week. So expensive but so good. Some kind of bug got to my basil so no home made for awhile.
By: Sandra Robbins on May 9, 2025
at 8:29 pm
Basil can be difficult to grow. Possums eat it on my Brisbane balcony. How funny to find Ligurian pesto so far from its home!
By: Debra Kolkka on May 10, 2025
at 2:17 am
Another feast for the eyes Deb! Fabulous photography
By: Christine on May 10, 2025
at 2:14 am
Portovenere is a delight, and the boat from Lerici is a great way to get there.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 10, 2025
at 2:18 am
I remember our visit there with you and Jim – such a lovely place and I remember the house along the waterfront that Peter and I picked out to buy when we win Lotto (it didn’t need renovating!)
By: Jan Trounce on May 10, 2025
at 4:25 am
It would be a lovely place to wake up in every morning.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 10, 2025
at 8:27 am
This was an especially delightful post – what a beautiful place, with such special details and beauty to feast your eyes on…all made possible by your wonderful photography. There IS wonder in the world, enchanting vistas and always the magnetic draw to the culinary delights! Oh, so lucky you! And. Thank you.
By: Catherine Rowley on May 10, 2025
at 11:32 am