Bagni di Lucca and Beyond

The Piazza dei Miracoli (Square of Miracles) in Pisa is surely one of the most beautiful piazzas in Italy. It is outside the centre of Pisa and the stunning buildings are surrounded by lush green grass rather than buildings.

Until recently there were market stalls beside the piazza, but they have now been moved outside the wall nearby…what a brilliant idea. The piazza is looking better than it ever has.

The leaning tower, which is actually the campanile (bell tower) of the cathedral, is not the only building in Piazza dei Miracoli.

The Baptistery is magnificent. It is the largest in Italy, begun in mid 12th century and finished in 14th century.

Construction of the Pisa Cathedral began in 1064.

The Camposanto Monumentale (walled cemetery) was bombed by Allied aircraft in July 1944 and almost destroyed. Restoration work continues.

The Campanile began in 1173 and was built in 3 stages over 177 years. It began to lean 5 years after construction and it was left to settle for a century. In 1272 building resumed. The upper floors were built with one side taller than the other. The 7th floor was added in 1319 and the bell chamber in 1372.

By the time the building was complete the lean was 1 degree. At its greatest, prior to 1990,  it was 5.5 degrees. It is now 4 degrees after much work.

It is now open for climbing and I suggest you do. You can feel the lean as you walk up the narrow stairs and the view from the top is excellent.

The site is well managed and easy to navigate. Go to the ticket office and choose what you want to see. You can just climb the tower or buy tickets for the other buildings. Only 45 can climb at a time. Book a time, arrive at the tower 10 minutes before and off you go.

After leaving Piazza dei Miracoli we headed for the next most impressive square in Pisa, Piazza dei Cavalieri, the Knight’s Square, the political centre in Medieval Pisa.

The main building on the square is Palazzo della Caravana . It was modernised in Renaissance style by Giorgio Vasari. The facade is decorated with sgraffiti by Vasari and contains 6 niches with busts of the grand dukes of Tuscany.

In front of the palace stands a statue of Cosimo I de Medici by Pietro Francavilla.

Beside the palace is the Church of the Holy and Military Order of St Stephen, built over the foundation of St Sebastian’s church.

The buildings in the Piazza dei Cavalieri are now a centre of education – part of the university of Pisa.

Moving on, we came to Borgo Stretto, the main street of the older part of Pisa’s centre.

There are some stunning buildings here, and the street is well named. Stretto means narrow.

At the river end of the street is an old wooden tabernacle.

Even though the wood looks really old, this is a copy. The original is from the 16th century and is now in the National Museum of St Matthew.

Garibaldi keeps watch over the square in front of the River Arno.

The river is lined with intetesting old buildings.

On the other side of the river there is a narrow street which opens to a wide pedestrian only shopping street.

There is a wonderful mix of old and new buildings.

Vittorio Emanuele I looks over the piazza at the end of the street, looking towards the railway station.

Keep an eye out behind Vittorio for the Keith Haring giant mural, Tuttomondo, painted on a wall of the church of St Anthony. Haring painted it with local help in 1989 just months before he died. It is his last public work. There is a cafe in front of it where you can stop for a coffee, snack or aperitivo and pick up a souvenir or 2.

 

Pisa is more than just the leaning tower. Take some time to wander the well cared for streets. The shopping offer is varied and there are some great cafes, markets and restaurants.

We enjoyed lunch at Osteria La Mescita at 2, Via Cavalca.

http://www.osterialamescitapisa.com

Our shared first course was particularly good. Mille folglie with beetroot pate and ricotta.

Jim had tagliatelle with leeks, sausage and pecorino cheese. It was just right.

I ordered tagliata di maiale, sliced pork with rocket.

Dessert was ricotta cream with chocolate and almonds…delicious.

We are definitely going back. The restaurant was full of local businessmen, a sure sign that the food is good.