On the other side of the peninsula of Portofino is the less well known seaside resort of Camogli. It shares the Golfo Paradiso on the Riviera di Levante with Portofino, but is a different kettle of fish.
In the late Middle Ages it was a significant seaport, but today it is a fishing village and beach resort with a more relaxed attitude than its neighbour. It’s name is said to come from ‘case delle mogli’, house of wives. Women took care of the town while the fishermen were out to sea.
Parking in the town is a bit scarce on a busy spring day, so we parked outside the centre and walked along the coast road until the harbour came into view.
From there steps lead down to the water’s edge, a hive of activity.
Through an arched entrance we found the beach and the colourful houses that line the pedestrian street.
On the warm day we visited the beach was full of people soaking up the sun.
The water is probably still a bit cold, and few people were in the water past their ankles.
Walking further on the group of buildings on the point make a dramatic backdrop for the sun worshippers.
The gorgeous cluster buildings on the point includes the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta, which was begun in the 12th century.
The esplanade has a great collection of shops, cafes, gelaterias and restaurants, all with excellent sea views.
The colourful buildings are decorated with trompe l’oeil window shutters, like several other villages in the area.
There are some seriously narrow laneways.
We had lunch at Primula, a pretty restaurant on the esplanade. We had seafood, of course, and a Ligurian pesto dish.
Camogli has become famous for its Sagra del Pesce, Fish Festival. It was established in 1952 in the optimistic and revival years after WWII. The festival was combined with the feast of San Fortunato, the patron saint of fishermen and is held on the second Sunday in May each year.
In the first year there were 6 small frying pans. The festival grew and a giant frying pan was constructed. The one below is the third of four made of iron.
It was used from the 1970s until 1985. Now a stainless steel one is used and 1,000 litres of oil are used to fry 3 tons of fish and 3,000 – 5,000 servings are distributed.
We were not able to attend the Sagra del Pesce this year but we did visit the town the evening before, when a religious parade winds through the town and later on there is a fireworks display and bonfires on the beach…more on that later.
Thanks (once again!) for these nice photos. Next year after our stay in Lucca we will be renting an apartment not too far from Camogli (near Recco). We love the Ligurian coast and are looking forward to exploring more small towns near there.
By: Laura Harwood on May 13, 2018
at 8:14 pm
We stayed in Recco on Saturday night as everything in Camogli was booked because of the festival. I’m sure you will enjoy your stay there.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 14, 2018
at 4:36 am
Stunning
By: Mallee Stanley on May 13, 2018
at 9:58 pm
Camogli is gorgeous. We visited several years ago and were pleased to return.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 14, 2018
at 4:37 am
Another stunning coastal village. Oh! I love Italy.
By: Kerry & Jim on May 13, 2018
at 11:04 pm
Camogli is gorgeous!
By: Debra Kolkka on May 14, 2018
at 4:38 am
Just as you say, the Ligurian coast is full of beautiful towns, not as well known as Portofino or Santa Margherita Ligure, but certainly wonderful and worth a visit.
By: Mulino Dominillo on May 14, 2018
at 4:19 am
It us quite amazing how each one is different and beautiful in its own way.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 14, 2018
at 4:38 am
Awesome 🙂
By: rutujathackeray on May 14, 2018
at 6:34 am
It certainly is.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 14, 2018
at 6:54 am
Beautiful shots and post! I saw many towns in Liguria this winter but this was a tad off from our route. Next time!
By: Ishita on May 14, 2018
at 6:39 am
Camogli is gorgeous, you will love it.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 14, 2018
at 6:55 am
I love Camogli though it is often rather busy.
By: Francesca on May 14, 2018
at 7:31 am
We were there a couple of weeks ago on a public holiday. It was OK, not too crowded. It is a very pretty town.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 14, 2018
at 11:10 am
very pretty
By: Reasons to Smile on May 14, 2018
at 7:41 am
We spent a day there a few years ago, and it is still a place I’d like to return to. It has a lovely atmosphere.
By: Anne Of Todi on May 14, 2018
at 1:34 pm
Absolutely grand … and what a wonderful walk!
By: aFrankAngle on May 14, 2018
at 3:22 pm
Looks beautiful and the food amazing! 🙂
By: thirdeyemom on May 14, 2018
at 3:51 pm
Thank you for sharing yet another gem!
By: maryshoobridge on May 15, 2018
at 8:21 am
We wanted to visit this charming town on our last visit to the coast of Italy but could not find any parking. I’ve enjoyed seeing what I missed on that trip.
By: Karen on May 17, 2018
at 7:48 pm
On our last visit we stayed in nearby Recco. There is more parking there and the walk to Camogli is not too bad.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 18, 2018
at 11:52 am