I visited Prato many years ago and I remember thinking it was an interesting city that deserved more exploration. In October I dropped in for a few hours. It is on the train line between Lucca and Florence, making it very easy to get to.
I left the train at Porta Serraglia, on the edge of the old section of Prato, a very good place to begin a walk through the city.
Just a short walk from the station is the magnificent cathedral of Santo Stefano, built on the site of an earlier church. The current structure dates from the Romanesque period of the 12th century.
The external pulpit was added between 1428 – 1438, built by Michelozzo and decorated by Donatello.
The church houses frescoes by Paolo Uccello, Filippo Lippi and Agnolo Gaddi.
The Piazza del Duomo is enormous. A lovely fountain forms the centrepiece.
Mazzoni keeps a weary watch over the piazza often with the help of pigeons sitting on his head.
Piazza del Comune is the heart of Prato. The square is home to the medieval Palazzo Pretoria, which is now a museum. It was built in the 13th century from red brick. An external staircase, clock tower and white stone gothic style additions happened from the 16th century.
The imposing white marble statue of Prato’s famous merchant, Francesco di Marco Datini (1335-1420), dominates the square.
The lovely Fontana del Bacchino is tucked in a corner. It is a copy of the original by Ferdinand Tacca, which is now kept in the Palazzo Comunale.
The streets of Prato are easy to navigate and there are many interesting buildings to keep your attention. There is good shopping and inviting cafes and restaurants.
A short walk from the Piazza del Comunale is the Castello dell’Imperatore, the only example of Swabian archicture in northern Italy.
It was built on the site of a small fortress. The castle is attributed to architect Riccardo da Latina, who also designed castles in Augusta, Syracuse and Catania. It was never finished because Fredierick died and the workmen left. It has served as a home , a war veteran’s shelter and a prison.
On my way back to the station I came upon a part of the old wall. Some of it had been put to use as an external wall of a house.
Prato has a long tradition of textile manufacture. There is an excellent textile museum, which I intend to visit on my next trip to Prato.
The city is still involved in textiles. It has the second largest Chinese community (after Milan) in Italy. Chinese immigrants first arrived in the 1980s and 1990s to work in the textile factories. There are around 3,500 workshops where approximately 45,000 Chinese workers are employed, legally and otherwise.
This community is outside the historical centre and has a thriving market area with lots of good Chinese restaurants. I realise that people don’t usually visit Italy to eat Chinese food, but when you stay for months at a time it can be a treat to eat something other than Italian food. I’ll show you one of these in another post.
Loved this post Deb and maybe one trip I will come to Prato and also visit the textile museum with you- and explore this lovely town.
By: Dianne CANT on December 11, 2016
at 11:07 am
Prato is an interesting place to visit. I went to the textile museum many years ago, but it is time to return.
By: Debra Kolkka on December 12, 2016
at 3:57 am
Thanks so much for taking us to Prato; great photos, as usual. I loved reading Iris Origo’s book The Merchant of Prato about the life of Francesco di Mardatini. It made 14th century Tuscany come alive for me.
By: Bonnie Suzanne Kane on December 11, 2016
at 1:28 pm
A book to read – I’ve read War in Val d’Orcia which was fascinating
By: Elizabeth Valerie Litzow on December 11, 2016
at 11:34 pm
I must look out for the Merchant of Prato too.
By: Debra Kolkka on December 12, 2016
at 3:57 am
As you rightly say, Prato is a very interesting place to visit. It’s links with the textile industry are very old and it used to be called the Italian Manchester. Things have changed quite a bit since then and it is amazing to see how the Chinese gave recreated a hub for the textile industry, although for those of us who have read or watched Gomorrah, the current situation is quite frightening. This article also tells us about the appalling conditions in which those Chinese workers survive http://www.reuters.com/article/us-italy-sweatshop-insight-idUSBRE9BS04D20131229
By: Mulino Dominillo on December 11, 2016
at 1:56 pm
People really need to start asking themselves how much workers get paid when they buy a $2 shirt. As someone who has made a living sewing clothes, I know just how much effort goes into making a garment. I would hate to work in a sweatshop and would dearly love to see people paid a decent amount of money.
By: Debra Kolkka on December 12, 2016
at 4:04 am
That article was sobering reading.
By: Yvonne on December 12, 2016
at 5:27 am
Beautiful town…we passed Prato many times but unfortunately didn’t take the time to visit. Perhaps one day!!
By: Kerry & Jim on December 11, 2016
at 10:59 pm
Prato has much to offer. I will return.
By: Debra Kolkka on December 12, 2016
at 4:04 am
Looks gorgeous – on the list for next year
By: Elizabeth Valerie Litzow on December 11, 2016
at 11:32 pm
It is an easy trip to Prato. I drive to Lucca and take the train.
By: Debra Kolkka on December 12, 2016
at 4:04 am
These ancient buildings are endlessly fascinating. The merchant, Francesco, was a handsome man and, for those times, he lived well into old age didn’t he. I have to confess, I gave your pastry equal scrutiny, well almost equal.
By: Jan on December 12, 2016
at 1:21 am
I can report that the pastry was excellent.
By: Debra Kolkka on December 12, 2016
at 4:05 am
Thanks for this post, Debra. I’m staying in Prato next March, and will obviously have lots to discover.
By: Yvonne on December 12, 2016
at 5:28 am
I’m sure you will have a great time.
By: Debra Kolkka on December 12, 2016
at 1:36 pm
Prato looks like a really beautiful city. Thank you for sharing.
By: corneliaweberphotography on December 12, 2016
at 5:30 am
Prato has lots to offer.
By: Debra Kolkka on December 12, 2016
at 8:06 pm
The city of Prato has been sponsoring some wonderful free excursions from Florence over the past few years in spring and fall. I happened to be in Florence and joined one and was pleasantly delighted with Prato as well…
By: PostcardZ from Victoria on December 12, 2016
at 4:14 pm
What a good idea to lure some of Florence’s visitors over to Prato.
By: Debra Kolkka on December 12, 2016
at 8:07 pm
Very interesting Debra! I didn’t realise that there were so many Chinese people in Milan (I haven’t visited). Do they have any Italian and Chinese fusion food?
By: Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella on December 13, 2016
at 9:07 am
I have eaten in a couple of Chinese restaurants in Prato in the Chinese area. It was not fusion food, strictly Chinese. Italians like to eat Italian food and rarely experiment as far as I can see.
By: Debra Kolkka on December 13, 2016
at 1:45 pm