Bagnoregio Civita’s isolation has been its downfall and its saviour. The former Etruscan town sits on a slowly eroding tufa plug in the Tiber valley. The town began to disintegrate around the 16th century for a couple of reasons. The clay base below the tufa subsided and the constant removal of stone from the sides of the cliff to build houses weakened the edges.
An earthquake in 1695 accelerated the move of the residents to nearby Bagnoregio. The migration continued and today there are only a handful of permanent residents. A few home owners come and go, and in the summer the town is busy with tourists, fascinated by a town frozen in time.
Clouds were skidding across the sky on the afternoon we visited, creating moving shadows across the striking town.
The only way into the town is via the footbridge, which replaced the original crumbling mule track. The addition of the footbridge is thanks to Bonaventura Tecchi, an Italian writer who was born in Bagnoregio Civita. He drew attention to the dying town and the resulting footbridge was its saviour. It is a steep walk up to the town.
It may be better not to look back if you are afraid of heights.
The entrance is through the stone doorway originally cut by Etruscans 2500 years ago and redecorated in the 12th century. The Porta Santa Maria is decorated by stone lions holding a human head, symbols often appearing on medieval churches.
The town is beautifully preserved and well cared for. The gardens are full of flowers and the houses appear to be well loved. There are a few shops, restaurants and cafes, most of which were closed in the late afternoon when we visited.
Come for a little walk around this enchanting town.
Peering over the edge reveals an interesting landscape.
We stayed in a B&B in the newer part of town. It is owned by one of Civita’s true characters, Franco, who also has a restaurant and B&B, Antico Forno, in the old town. He very kindly cooked dinner for us and told us many interesting tales of the town.
He has featured in many newspaper and magazine articles and has Rick Steves as a fan. He proudly told us the Catriona Rowntree from Australia’s Getaway ( a TV travel show) had been to chat to him. I think every town could use a spokesperson like Franco to extol its virtues.
It was dark as we made our way out of Bagnoregio Civita for the long walk back.
Bagnoregio Civita is not to be missed. It is in the province of Viterbo, about 120 kilometres from Rome. There is a car park near the entrance to the footbridge and there is a fee of €1.50 to enter the town.
Debra, what an amazing place!! How many people actually live up there? I’m guessing that have to get their food from outside the town? How intriguing it all is…thank you for sharing it with us! xx
By: Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial on May 14, 2016
at 4:52 am
About 8 people are permanent residents, but it looks very well cared for. Some people who own houses there, visit regularly. Supplies are brought in by motor scooter and probably small hand controlled tractor devices that we see in many towns with tiny streets.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 14, 2016
at 4:57 am
What a fascinating place – I’m sure it’s full of fascinating stories too. I imagine it was well placed to repel marauding ne’er do wells.
By: Jan on May 14, 2016
at 5:46 am
Ne’er do wells would have needed a good mule.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 14, 2016
at 8:06 am
Ah! Bagnoregio! We made a trip to this enchanting town. Some of the little coutyard gardens were ‘open’ for viewing. One that I will never forget was just gorgeous, about the size of a postage stamp, with a well tended array of herbs, flowers and pots……extremely beautiful! The sweetest piu vecchio donna, as old as the town itself,cloaked in all black,with a huge smile, stood at the entry, stooped, with palm facing out and up. Obviously she did not speak English, but we understood there was en entry fee, we donated the coins, but the hand shook for more and was not withdrawn until the prescribed amount was forthcoming. …such a funny situation, the circumstances of which we always have a good laugh and made the town unforgettable twice over! Thanks for sharing you photos,Debra!
By: sue on May 14, 2016
at 6:28 am
It is always the contacts with people who make these places memorable.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 14, 2016
at 8:07 am
Debra this is one of the most awesome post . Appreciate you sharing . End May 2016 will be in Bagni di Lucca . Hope we can to help base .
By: Anonymous on May 14, 2016
at 7:55 am
Bagnoregio is a fabulous spot. Let me know when you arrive in BdL and we can perhaps meet for coffee.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 14, 2016
at 8:08 am
Hope you get to see some of the ‘open gardens’ 🙂
By: sue on May 14, 2016
at 9:26 am
Thanks it Wendy from South Africa
By: Anonymous on May 14, 2016
at 8:15 am
I have wanted to visit this place since I first read about it. I find the story of Italy’s ghost towns quite fascinating. Last year in Sardinia I visited the abandoned mining village of Argentiera. Spooky!
By: Andrew Petcher on May 14, 2016
at 8:33 am
This place isn’t as much of a ghost town as you might expect, Andrew. Argentiera sounds fascinating – will you be doing a post?
By: Sue on May 14, 2016
at 10:00 am
I did one already – https://apetcher.wordpress.com/2015/11/21/sardinia-a-ghost-town-and-a-cyclone/
By: Andrew Petcher on May 14, 2016
at 10:10 am
Oh, goodness, how did I miss that? It looks right up my street….I feel a trip to Sardinia coming on!
By: Sue on May 14, 2016
at 10:15 am
I visited some years ago, expecting to see a ruined ghost town, but not a bit of it! It’s all rather neat and tidy, but charming nonetheless….your post has brought back great memories
By: Sue on May 14, 2016
at 9:59 am
We have been before, a few years ago, but I hadn’t remembered how pretty it was.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 15, 2016
at 7:24 pm
Somewhere to put on my list of places I must visit. Lovely blog. Orna
By: orna2013 on May 14, 2016
at 10:12 am
Thank you. You will enjoy Bagnoregio.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 15, 2016
at 7:24 pm
Oh my Goodness! I’m so so so jealous. I want to go here badly. I’ve seen this on The Amazing Race, and been wishing to be there.
By: rommel on May 14, 2016
at 11:40 am
It is a fascinating place to visit.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 15, 2016
at 7:25 pm
I’ve always wanted to visit this enchanting town. Thank you for taking us there.
By: paninigirl on May 14, 2016
at 1:49 pm
You must go on your next trip.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 15, 2016
at 7:25 pm
Great photos, thank you. I would love to go there! we are flying to Naples tomorrow and we are staying in Portofino. There are so many wonderful places to visit in Italy, we do try to go once a year to a different place.
By: janetknight57 on May 14, 2016
at 3:22 pm
Do you mean Positano? Portofino is up our way.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 15, 2016
at 7:26 pm
Yes I’m an idiot! We are here now. And it is wonderful.
By: janetknight57 on May 16, 2016
at 6:58 am
Absolutely amazing and the pictures are fantastic! Thank you for sharing. I must go!
By: Tony on May 14, 2016
at 3:27 pm
Bagnoregio is a great place to visit.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 15, 2016
at 7:26 pm
Such an amazing place and what a hike to get up there. 🙂 Gorgeous photos, Debra.
By: anotherday2paradise on May 14, 2016
at 7:52 pm
It is a bit of a hike, but well worth it.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 15, 2016
at 7:27 pm
An amazing place! Great photography Debra!
By: Pauline on May 15, 2016
at 1:01 am
Thank you. It was our second visit to Bagnoregio.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 15, 2016
at 7:27 pm
You have great sources leading you to wonderful gems. Many thanks.
By: aFrankAngle on May 15, 2016
at 2:00 am
We try to find interesting places to visit.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 15, 2016
at 7:28 pm
What a treasure of a lovely town you have discovered, and you captured it beautifully. Thank you for sharing Debra.
By: corneliaweberphotography on May 15, 2016
at 3:14 am
I hope you visit one day soon.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 15, 2016
at 7:28 pm
Looks like my kind of village. Very unique and so lovely!
By: thirdeyemom on May 15, 2016
at 8:03 am
We really liked that it is so well cared for.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 15, 2016
at 7:29 pm
Wow, most enchanting town! Thank you for sharing this, Debra.😊
By: cocoaupnorth on May 15, 2016
at 10:43 am
It is a beautiful place to visit.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 15, 2016
at 7:29 pm
Hi Debra, thanks for such a fascinating and historic tour through Civita di Bagnoregio. It looks like an amazing place to visit. Great photos. Thanks again.
Cheers
Robyn
By: italia4ever on May 15, 2016
at 11:55 pm
It is lovely. There are a few places to stay in the centre, but then you would have to carry your bags across.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 16, 2016
at 5:43 am
That town is truly remarkable. With all of the places you’re showing us, I’d need at least a year in Italy-or more!
By: Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella on May 16, 2016
at 10:14 am
I have been coming to Italy for 14 years…it is not enough.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 16, 2016
at 3:47 pm
What a beautiful town and interesting. Did you walk all the road? I wanted to visit this town… Amazing. Thank you dear Debra, have a nice day, Love, nia
By: niasunset on May 16, 2016
at 2:31 pm
We walked through all of the streets. It is an interesting place.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 16, 2016
at 2:39 pm
🙂
By: simonjkyte on April 10, 2017
at 8:29 pm
How beautiful! I think I’d require medication for the bridge, but the views and town look to make that worthwhile.
By: sheilasunshine on May 16, 2016
at 7:53 pm
You could just shut your eyes and be led across.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 19, 2016
at 4:21 pm
I love this town, it made a wonderful day trip from Orvieto and we had the simplest, tastiest lunch there. Great memories, thank you 🙂
By: twoblackdoggies on May 18, 2016
at 4:29 pm
It is a gorgeous town. I hope it survives a while longer.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 19, 2016
at 4:21 pm
I LOVED this post. And, of course, your photos are so swoon worthy! The ‘walk in’ just adds to the charm, changing it up from other small villages. A little surreal I would imagine, kept back if you will, to yesteryear, adding further to it’s uniqueness. Simply – Thank You – it was a delight!!
By: Anonymous on May 19, 2016
at 1:20 pm
It really is amazing how different these little villages are from each other. This one is special.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 19, 2016
at 4:22 pm
[…] revisited Bagnoregio, sitting in a precarious position on a disappearing tufa plug. I wonder how much longer it will […]
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By: GOOD LUCK on February 5, 2017
at 7:20 am
Incredible little village(?). Very well described. Fine pictures. Thank you
By: Fred on May 17, 2018
at 12:18 pm
It is a wonderful place.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 17, 2018
at 2:02 pm
It is a wonderful place.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 17, 2018
at 2:02 pm
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