We loved Ortigia the moment we crossed the bridge from Siracusa into the historical centre.
We found our B&B, Porta Marina, which was near the bridge and beside the water. Delightful Simona got us organised, showing us what to see in Ortigia. She suggested we start at the Maniace Castle as it is only open until 1.30pm. It was an easy walk around the edge of the island to the point.
The castle, as you can imagine, has had an interesting history. It was built by Emperor Frederick II between 1232 and 1240. The name comes from George Maniakis, the Byzantine General who besieged and took the city in 1038. He built the first fort on the site.
From 1305 – 1536 it was used as a residence by several queens of Sicily. It was a prison in the 15th century and after being damaged in 1704 it was remodelled for the use of guns.
It is quite big and we were free to wander.
Part of the castle was closed for renovation, but a photo showed us some of what we were missing.
There was an exhibition showing plans and drawings of how it might have looked.
The other exhibition is where I found the hand grenades. (previous post) As well as the grenades there were other found objects.
Outside the exhibition was a collection of cannon balls. They must have tried to use those sparingly, it can’t have been much fun making them.
There were great views from the castle of the island, it is a fabulous vantage point.
We walked along the sea front. There are some gorgeous old buildings to admire.
We turned into Via Roma and found a beautiful street with lovely balconies and building decoration.
The aroma of frying fish wafting along the street drew us in for lunch.
We walked into the Piazza Duomo. The columns of an older Greek temple are embedded in the side of the cathedral.
The piazza is huge and considered one of the most beautiful baroque piazzas in Sicily.
We found another lovely church…Chiesa San Giovanni, from the 13th – 14th centuries…unfortunately the roof is missing.
Nearby we vistited the underground Jewish ritual baths which were buried for centuries. The owner of the hotel discovered the mikveh when she was renovating. It lies 90 metres below the hotel and is reached by 56 damp steps.
There has been a Jewish presence in Ortigia for at least 1,400 years, possibly 2,000. The mikveh was filled with rubble and the door was concealed when the Jews were forced to flee the city.
I can’t show you the baths, because photos were not allowed. The staff from the hotel take you underground and explain what you see. It is an excellent thing to do. (The hotel is gorgeous, look for Residenza Alla Giudea) It is in Via Alagona.
We have become addicted to granita, and had to stop for one mid afternoon.
The Temple of Apollo was built in the 6th century BC, making it the oldest Doric Temple in Sicily. It once had 42 monolithic columns, which must have made it spectacular. Today only 2 remain intact (almost). It still looks impressive, these columns are huge.
We set off the watch the sunset along the tree covered walk way beside the sea.
There is a tiny beach beside the garden…a good sunset viewing spot. (Another suggestion by Simona) The garden had what looked like Moreton Bay Fig trees, but surely not.
A walk through town in the evening was delightful…there are dozens of restaurants and shops in the narrow streets and grand piazzas.
The shops had lots of marzipan fruits and ceramics…as you would expect in Sicily.
We were very happy with the restaurant suggested by Simona, L’Osteria da Seby in Via Mirabella 21…all her other ideas were great.
I just may have discovered proof that people from outer space may have once visited Ortigia…I spotted this figure on a building by the sea.
Ortigia is fabulous…we will be back for a longer visit.
I feel that one of the problems with Sicily is getting enough time to visit and enjoy so many wonderful sites.
And granita is delicious and refreshing!
By: Mulino Dominillo on April 24, 2016
at 5:02 pm
Next time we will come to fewer places and spend more time in each. We wanted to do a bit of a road trip this time to see what we liked best.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 24, 2016
at 5:17 pm
agree….we loved it and thanks for renewing our memories
By: Italian Wine Importers on April 24, 2016
at 5:17 pm
It is a great spot. Have you taken on Sicilian wines?
By: Debra Kolkka on April 24, 2016
at 8:06 pm
Yes two great Sicilian producers. Terre Nere from Etna and Marabino from Noto in the South East (not far from Siracusa. We will have to have a glass or two together
By: Italian Wine Importers on April 24, 2016
at 8:32 pm
Incredible!
By: Tony on April 24, 2016
at 5:30 pm
It is an amazing place.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 24, 2016
at 8:07 pm
We too visited Ortigia. What a place. We were there in May when santa Lucia was returned to her church from the duomo. The nighttime procession took about 2 hours, as it did not cross the piazza, but rather wound its way through town. What an incredible evening. Thousands of people accompanied Santa Lucia. It took 12-16 men to carry her, stopping every 5 minutes or so to rest. The town was magical thst night. And, it was calm compared to what we heard about the night they move her the other direction! If you are planning to be in Sicilia in mid-May, check the dates! It is an experience not to miss.
By: Seattle ciclista on April 24, 2016
at 5:51 pm
An watch for kyack water polo between the two bridges to Ortiga, a late afternoon local game.
By: Seattle ciclista on April 24, 2016
at 5:52 pm
Both of these events sound like great fun. We should time our next visit accordingly.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 24, 2016
at 8:08 pm
Your blog brings back fond memories. We really enjoy the Lucca area. We get there every few years for a week or so, although our hearts live in Pienza. Tomorrow we return to Pienza for just a month, but are there in the Fall from Sept to two days before American Thanksgiving. If we weren’t turning 70 this year, we would buy a place too. Instead, we rent the same apt every Fall. We’ve made great friends there, and if it weren’t for grandkids and other family we would move to Italy. The lifestyle is so healthy. The people we have met are now dea friends. It’s a blessing to live in the digital age, to be able to stay connected, and even to have “conversations” over whats app or whatever with friends in other countries.
If you are ever down our way in the Fall, let me know and we’d be more than happy to feed you, take you around, offer suggestions or whatever. Chestnut festival is the first weekend in Nov, but there are lots of events upcoming as it is the 20th anniversary of becoming a UNESCO World Heritage site. Check out the Pienza town website.
Carol Bergson Cjbergson@gmail.com
Sent from my iPad
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By: Carol Bergson on April 24, 2016
at 6:04 pm
I love Pienza! I will be around in the autumn and any excuse to visit Pienza suits me, thank you.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 24, 2016
at 8:05 pm
So many thanks for a return to a city I well remember for its beauty and how well you’ve recorded it, you’re a genius.
By: Gian Banchero on April 24, 2016
at 6:20 pm
It is a beautiful place, and so much fun to explore. We will return to Ortigia.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 24, 2016
at 8:04 pm
Lovely photos. The weather looks perfect. What have temperatures been like? This time next week will be starting our trip in Taormina.
By: Keith on April 24, 2016
at 7:49 pm
The days are hot, especially in the afternoons, but the early mornings and nights are quite cool, bring a jacket and comfortable shoes. You will be doing lots of walking.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 24, 2016
at 8:03 pm
What a delightful place. Everything looks so clean and neat, Taking a snapshot trip is a great way to find out what parts you would like to return to and spend more time.
By: Lyn on April 24, 2016
at 8:52 pm
Ortigia is well loved by the residents. It was a delight to wander through the streets.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 25, 2016
at 4:37 am
We loved our stay in ortigia in December 2011. Glad you saw ritual bath.there’s a great fish market too. Nice pics.
By: Francis on April 24, 2016
at 9:25 pm
We missed the fish market…must return.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 25, 2016
at 4:37 am
Loved Ortigia too Deb and I remember all the marzipan fruits and ceramics – did you buy a plate for your collection?
By: Liz Litzow on April 24, 2016
at 10:12 pm
We have managed to find a couple of ceramic pieces.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 25, 2016
at 4:38 am
Looks beautiful Deb….thanks for the tour.
By: Kerry & Jim on April 24, 2016
at 11:29 pm
It is s great spot, we enjoyed our time there.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 25, 2016
at 4:38 am
Beautiful Debra! I’ve been a bit behind in your posts as life has become suddenly busy! I’ve never been to Sicily before. Looks like a wonderful place!
By: thirdeyemom on April 25, 2016
at 12:06 am
Sicily is a great place to visit. The countryside is beautiful too.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 25, 2016
at 4:39 am
Thanks for the reminder, I took my tour group there a few years ago and we had a wonderful couple of days being hosted by the Baron who owned the palazzo behind the furtherest set of white umbrellas in the piazza.Incidentally Dolce and Gabbana owned a palazzo also at the other end of the piazza.
By: Roslyn MacAllan (@roztaste) on April 25, 2016
at 12:18 am
It is easy to see where D&G get their inspiration.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 25, 2016
at 4:39 am
Am receiving your blog via my dear sister. Would appreciate adding me to your long list and think your posts are engaging & beautiful. Thank you in advance!!!
By: Joy Campbell on April 25, 2016
at 12:54 am
Thank you for subscribing. I hope you will stop by and say hello sometimes.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 25, 2016
at 4:40 am
It’s kind of funny in hindsight how walls, rocks, concrete, and only their designs and each of their retrospects are all that we go to travel for. I’d totally visit this place even just for the walls. 🙂
By: rommel on April 25, 2016
at 12:29 pm
The little streets in Ortigia would keep you interested for a long time. We loved the town.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 25, 2016
at 8:39 pm
Lovely pictures!
By: Simply Splendid Food on April 25, 2016
at 4:48 pm
Thank you, Ortigia is beautiful.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 25, 2016
at 8:39 pm
I love all the bright colors – flowers, ceramics, the sea, marzipan, granita. You capture it all quite amazingly.
By: sheilasunshine on April 26, 2016
at 7:00 am
It is a great spot.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 27, 2016
at 6:32 am
Thanks Deb for sharing this with us……You have made me want to go there……asap.
By: Moira Drexler on April 26, 2016
at 5:13 pm
…your next visit to Italy.
By: Debra Kolkka on April 27, 2016
at 6:32 am
This is one of my favourite posts of yours Debra. It’s full of life and colour. I can almost imagine what it was like to live there in history.
By: Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella on April 27, 2016
at 9:42 am
Ortigia is fabulous…my favourite bit of Sicily on this trip.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 16, 2016
at 3:53 pm
We are lucky enough to call Siracusa Province home and have a house in Ortigia right on the lungomare, though we use it primarily as an Airbnb rental and prefer to live a few minutes away in the hills overlooking the city. I am so pleased you enjoyed Ortigia . On your next visit try Corisino pasticceria ( they won The TV competizione for best in Italy) in beautiful Palazzolo Acreide ( boasts a very fine Teatro Greco to Explorer) and go to Buccheri to eat at U Locale ( Number One Slow Food Osteria in Sicily year after year )
By: Linda Chartier Scala on April 28, 2016
at 10:02 pm
We loved Ortigia and will return. Thank you for your tips.
By: Debra Kolkka on May 16, 2016
at 3:53 pm
There is something utterly Sicilian about the light and colours you capture so beautifully Deb. You can tell you were having a lovely time!
By: janinevasta on May 1, 2016
at 8:56 am
Ortigia is gorgeous and full of interesting things.
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at 3:54 pm
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