I love Pistoia! It is an easy day trip from Bagni di Lucca, but the hot weather puts me off doing this. I prefer to stay overnight so I can get out and about in the morning, go back to the hotel in the heat of the afternoon, then venture out again when it cools down a bit.
One of the very best things about Pistoia is my lovely friend Michela. She was born in Pistoia and absolutely loves her home town. She is a fabulous tour guide and has shown me many of her favourite things.
This time we met in front of the Romanesque church dedicated to San Bartolomeo, dating from the 8th century, with renovations in the 12th century. It is almost time for the festival honouring the saint.
In front of the church is the Pasticceria Banci where Michela introduced me to the special sweet made for the celebrations.
As well as being a professional tour guide, Michela’s family has owned their restaurant, Il Pollo D’Oro, since 1962. The name, Golden Chicken, refers to the chicken ‘tanned’ in a rotisserie, which is how the restaurant began. They now serve excellent local dishes and delicious pizzas.
Michela and I have made plans for a day in Florence when the weather cools a little. This will be fun, she knows Florence like the back of her hand and is wonderful company.
My wanderings took me all over town. I have been several times before, so I had no particular agenda.
The baptistery is magnificent outside and in. The stark interior is enormous, photos cannot show how amazing this is…you have to go there and see for yourself.
My favourite building in Pistoia is the 13th century Ospedale del Ceppo. It was built in 1277 and became the city’s main hospital after the Black Death in 1348. There were several renovations until the current facade was built with the Renaissance arcaded loggia in 1502.
The loggia is decorated with a ceramic glaze frieze added in 1525 by Santi Buglioni, a student of Giovanni della Robbia.
Also from 1525 are the tondoes by Giovanni della Robbia.
…and above the door to the church next door.
The city looks lovely at night.
The Piazza della Sala is a fresh food market by day, but at night the market stalls are gone and the restaurants bring out their tables and chairs and the scene becomes lively again. Things are a bit muted this year, but there was still a small crowd of happy diners.
I had a wonderful meal at i Salaioli. Tomato stuffed with stracciatella, gnocchi with saffron and zucchini and perfect pork belly.
I stayed at Palazzo Puccini, sister accommodation to where I stayed last time, La Locanda San Marco. They also have apartments called Il Ceppo.
My bedroom was enormous and the bathroom was a generous size also.
The breakfast room and common rooms are beautiful. I always want to go home and paint my walls and ceilings after staying in lovely places like this.
Here is a photo of Michela that I took a while ago in front of my favourite cafe in Pistoia, regretfully closed for holidays this time. Below is a link to Michela’s blog.
http://www.passion4food4fashion.com
Here are some links to previous posts about Pistoia.
Pistoia is a great place to visit. It is close to Florence, but even in busy seasons has been able to avoid the throngs of tourists and is always charming and manageable. It would be a great day trip if you were staying in Florence or Lucca, or better still, stay a night or two.