I was lucky to be in London while the Schiaparelli exhibition is on at the V&A museum.
Elsa Schiaparelli was an Italian fashion designer.
She was born on 10th September 1890 into a wealthy aristocratic family. She died at 83 on 13th September 1973. Her Maison Schiaparelli was established in Paris in 1927. She ran it until the 1950s.
She began with knitwear. She launched a knitwear collection in 1927 featuring sweaters with surrealist troupe-l’oeil images.
The collection later included bathing suits, ski wear and linen dresses.
Her collections were famous for unconventional and artistic themes. She collaborated with Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau. She was regarded as one of the most prominent European fashion designers between the two World Wars.
She was influenced by Paul Poiret, whom she considered a mentor and friend. She had no training in pattern making and clothing construction. She draped fabric directly on the body, sometimes herself.
Evening wear was added in 1931, using luxury silks. Many designs a stunningly embellished with embroidery and beading. Some of these could still be worn today and look current.
Who doesn’t love a carrot button? I love these whimsical details.
Designed with Jean Cocteau…a bit blurry, sorry.
This is the famous lobster dress designed in collaboration with Elsa’s friend, Salvador Dali. It was worn by Wallis Simpson in a pre wedding photo shoot.
Beside it is the famous lobster telephone.
A bad photo of the famous shoe hat.
More hats.
There is a delightful collection of whimsical jewellery.
My favourite outfit was this gorgeous one. It was saved until last.
Daniel Roseberry took over as the creative director at Schiaperelli in 2019. He was born in Texas in 1985. He studied at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and then worked for Thom Brown for 10 years before moving to Schiaperelli.
I think he has done a good job carrying on the avant-garde and use of surrealism of Elsa Schiaperelli. He is interested in experimenting and pushing the boundaries of couture…as she did.
This red dress was worn by Ariana Grande.
This is incredible, possibly a little difficult to wear.
The scorpion one could be difficult too.
This jacket is incredible.
All are stunning works of art.
The final piece before the exit was this small example of the embroidery and beading by Maison Lesage, showing the decadent gold thread that would have adorned Schiaperelli evening wear. The padlock motif appeared in Elsa Schiaperelli’s 1935 Stop, Look and Listen collection as a striking suit fastener. A design feature across her garments and accessories, it remains an inspiration for Daniel Roseberry today.
Schiaperelli: Fashion Becomes Art.
The exhibition continues at V&A South Kensington is on until Sunday 8th November 2026.