The Tuscan hilltop town of Montepulciano is perhaps best known for its fine red wine, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. It is also a beautiful town full of happy delights for the lucky person who finds their way here.
I have been to Montepulciano a couple of times. Here is a previous post…Montepulciano-A Tuscan Gem
It is difficult to believe it is 11 years since my last visit, I should go more often. This lovely town is the highest in the region, sitting 605 metres above sea level. It climbs steeply above the plain below. I know, I walked slowly up from the free car park below the town on a hot day.
After cooling off at my hotel, La Dimora Nel Corso, I set of to rediscover Montepulciano. The hotel is in Via di Gracciano nel Corso, a continuation of Via di Voltaia nel Corso and Via dell’Opio nel Corso. These streets are the main shopping streets of the town. Here you will find an excellent selection of stylish shops, cafes and restaurants and tasting rooms for wine and local produce. There are lots of others scattered around the town too, so do venture further.
I thought the flowers in front of this shop, where I bought some local olive oil and almond biscuits, were plastic, they looked so perfect. They were real begonias.
The shop below is the oldest in Montepulciano, it began in 1848.
Last time we were here there was a row of yellow shoes in front.
After turning left at Piazzetta del Teatro I walked up another steep street and came to Piazza Grande, the main square of the town.
Here you will find the Cattedrale, Santa Maria Assunta, consecrated in 1712.
The Palazzo Comunale completed in 1440.
The lion on the front is a little worn.
The Palazzo dei Nobili.
Pozza dei Grifi e dei Lioni surely features in every photo of Montepulciano. The well was built in 1520 when Montepulciano was under Florentine rule. It has 2 Doric columns holding up a travertine table with 2 lions holding the Medici crest between them and 2 griffins on either side. The well was restored in 1702.
A slow walk around the back streets of Montepulciano revealed some wonderful buildings, gardens and sneak peeks at the countryside below between the buildings.
I wandered into this delightful courtyard. It it the entrance to a B&B, Meuble il Riccio.
This wonderful building has the most amazing weathered carved stone blocks on its facade.
Pulcinella stands on top of a clock tower. Pulcinella is a 17th century puppet from Naples. It was probably placed there at the time of a restoration in 1680
I had some delicious things to eat in Montepulciano. The hotel did not have a breakfast room so it arranges for guests to have breakfast at the stylish Poliziano cafe.
The cafe has a tiny balcony with views over the Tuscan landscape below.
I also had lunch in the restaurant on the floor below. It has a stunning view from a covered outdoor area.
Here is my stuffed guinea fowl with Montepulciano prunes and the signature Poliziano dessert, both delicious.
On another evening I enjoyed panzanella and pici, the local pasta, with duck, at Ristorante Magrola in Piazza Erbe.
I walked around the edge of the town to take in the magnificent views from my lofty position.
Aperitivo is my favourite time of the day and where better to enjoy a spritz than Piazza Grande.
As you can see there were few people around. It was great for the children playing football in the piazza. This was the case for the whole time I was in Montepulciano.
Normally at this time of the year the streets and squares would be bustling with people. While it was pleasant to wander without crowds I found it sad. I feel for the people trying to keep their businesses alive. Travel in Europe is still hampered by this wretched virus. Restrictions in many countries make travel difficult.
Tuscany will be a white zone from Monday which means everything will be open with no curfews. Masks are no longer needed outdoors, which is great in the hot weather. This is excellent for those of us already here in Tuscany, but the season will be hard for those businesses depending on international tourists.
A last look at San Bagio church on the way to the car park.
I won’t leave it 11 years until the next visit to Montepulciano.
La Dimora nel Corso…ladimoranelcorso@gmail.com