I have been to Venice many times and I love this beautiful city. I usually go in winter to avoid the hordes of tourists that descend on the city in the warmer months. I could not resist the opportunity to see Venice sparkle in the sun while tourists are kept away by the virus that is preventing many people from travelling.
Now that we are able to travel more freely in Italy I set off to arrive by train. It is a good idea to buy tickets ahead of the day of travel because the number of people allowed on trains is reduced and every second seat is to be kept free. Masks are to be worn at all times on board and Trenitalia staff check constantly to make sure this is happening. I didn’t feel unsafe or crowded at all.
As soon as I checked into my hotel in the Cannaregio district I headed off to San Marco. My plan was to have a spritz at Florian to celebrate its 300th anniversary.
Unfortunately this was not to be. Florian is only open Friday to Monday for the moment and this was Wednesday. I will return before the end of the year.
Instead I found a shady spot on the opposite side of the Piazza where I had a sandwich and a shakerato, a delicious cold coffee made by shaking together a shot of espresso and ice cubes…perfect for a hot day in Venice.
My position offered a perfect view of the Basilica San Marco.
There was a tiny queue outside waiting to get into the basilica. The church itself is closed for restoration, but the museum above is open. I have been a couple of times (The bronze horses of San Marco )
There is plenty to see outside the basilica. Beautiful things are everywhere.
There are tourists in Venice, but it is certainly not crowded. The majority of visitors seemed to be Italians. Most of the foreign languages I heard were German and French. The main thoroughfare from San Marco to Rialto was reasonably busy, but once away from these streets you can wander almost alone.
The best thing to do in Venice is to wander with no agenda. You will get lost and it will be fun. It is easy to get back on track when you are ready to find your direction again, especially if you use your phone, but wandering aimlessly is the very best way to enjoy Venice. Your eyes need to be everywhere to enjoy all the details.
In the church above we found “Lucy’s eyes” on a previous when we were on a quest to find things in Secret Venice, a book filled with interesting things to discover. Lucy’s eyes
I was delighted to find a restaurant I enjoyed on a previous visit, Taverna al Remer. I had forgotten the name, but I knew roughly where it was and after going down a few blind alleys I finally found the correct one. It is in a courtyard opposite Rialto. A small party was there celebrating a first birthday and there were groups sitting along the edge of the canal making the most of the view.
This is a view from the mooring.
Dinner was delicious. Grilled octopus was my choice for first course, followed by pumpkin ravioli with pheasant ragu.
Afterwards I walked to the empty Rialto bridge to see the Grand Canal. The shops on the bridge are closed and I had the bridge almost to myself.
The other restaurant I went to was La Zucca, recommended by a friend who knows her food. It was excellent and well patronised. All the outside tables were full, but it interior was lovely.
First course was sformatina di carciofi (artichoke), followed by pork fillet with fresh plums and carrots with lime and ginger. Dessert was mango in aspic with honey and almonds.
The main street in Cannaregio was busy in the evening. People were generally not wearing masks outside as it was quite hot, but you cannot go into a shop or restaurant without a mask and there is hand sanitiser at every door.
This is what the street scene is usually like right now. It is amazing to be in Venice in summer without tourists!
I stayed at the Pesaro Palace which is right beside the ferry stop C’a d’Oro. It is only a few steps from the ferry to the front door…very handy. It has a lovely courtyard, with resident cat.
I spotted this tub which I think could find a place at Casa Debbio.
The views from the private mooring are gorgeous.
I took far too many photographs for one post on Venice, there will be more.