On the other side of the peninsula of Portofino is the less well known seaside resort of Camogli. It shares the Golfo Paradiso on the Riviera di Levante with Portofino, but is a different kettle of fish.
In the late Middle Ages it was a significant seaport, but today it is a fishing village and beach resort with a more relaxed attitude than its neighbour. It’s name is said to come from ‘case delle mogli’, house of wives. Women took care of the town while the fishermen were out to sea.
Parking in the town is a bit scarce on a busy spring day, so we parked outside the centre and walked along the coast road until the harbour came into view.
From there steps lead down to the water’s edge, a hive of activity.
Through an arched entrance we found the beach and the colourful houses that line the pedestrian street.
On the warm day we visited the beach was full of people soaking up the sun.
The water is probably still a bit cold, and few people were in the water past their ankles.
Walking further on the group of buildings on the point make a dramatic backdrop for the sun worshippers.
The gorgeous cluster buildings on the point includes the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta, which was begun in the 12th century.
The esplanade has a great collection of shops, cafes, gelaterias and restaurants, all with excellent sea views.
The colourful buildings are decorated with trompe l’oeil window shutters, like several other villages in the area.
There are some seriously narrow laneways.
We had lunch at Primula, a pretty restaurant on the esplanade. We had seafood, of course, and a Ligurian pesto dish.
Camogli has become famous for its Sagra del Pesce, Fish Festival. It was established in 1952 in the optimistic and revival years after WWII. The festival was combined with the feast of San Fortunato, the patron saint of fishermen and is held on the second Sunday in May each year.
In the first year there were 6 small frying pans. The festival grew and a giant frying pan was constructed. The one below is the third of four made of iron.
It was used from the 1970s until 1985. Now a stainless steel one is used and 1,000 litres of oil are used to fry 3 tons of fish and 3,000 – 5,000 servings are distributed.
We were not able to attend the Sagra del Pesce this year but we did visit the town the evening before, when a religious parade winds through the town and later on there is a fireworks display and bonfires on the beach…more on that later.