Today I walked into Lucca through the door under Baluardo S.Martino, near Porta Santa Maria. There are 11 baluardos and six main entrances to Lucca. The walls are more than 10 metres tall, and up to 30 metres thick at the base. Until 1799, they were defended by 126 cannons which were taken away by the Austrians during their withdrawal.
Most of the doors lead you directly through the wall to the town, but under Baluardo S. Martino you can walk through the barracks where soldiers would have gathered. The entrance is narrow and dark, and today water was dripping through onto the track because of the rain.
Once through the narrow tunnel, the space opens up into large cavernous areas where the soldiers would have sheltered. There are several air vents and old fireplaces. Perhaps the men had to spend lots of time here. The photos make it look quite light, but it isn’t. It is dark, dingy and damp. No doubt it would have been lit with lamps and fires, but it can’t have been much fun down there.
It was good to come out into daylight and walk up onto the top of the wall.
On the top you can see the airvents and chimneys – a much nicer place to be.

