On a recent visit to Helsinki we were delighted to find Saaga, which serves traditional and modern delicacies from Lapland.
Lapland is an area of Finland and Sweden mostly within the Artic Circle. It refers to the land inhabited by the Sami people, known for their wonderful colourful clothing.
Entering the restaurant is like walking into a Lappish wooden house, with a room at the entrance to offload your winter coats (and skis if you were arriving that way)
the entrance to Saaga
The interior has the touch of Lappish artisans and a definite atmosphere of Lapland. We went to Finnish Lapland a couple of years ago and found it enchanting.
a pretty window
We were the first to arrive at the restaurant so I was able to have a good look around.
the rustic setting
I found all the details around the rooms fascinating.
traditional footwear
I would be fun to have a pair of those shoes.
moose head
I hate to think what happened to the rest of him.
looking down from the second floor
The food…
the menu
I love Finnish rye bread.
delicious bread and butter
The restaurant uses only pure Lappish or Finnish products where possible, sourced from small producers. The dishes include reindeer, Atlantic char, bear (we didn’t eat it), mushrooms and berries. Everything is served on wooden platters, in kuska wooden mugs and cast iron pots.
Atlantic char with potatoes and mushrooms
Our fish was grilled on a wooden board and assembled at the table. It was delicious.
the mushrooms - yum
I am a sucker for anything with cloudberries, so I ordered the Lappish cheese in cinamon cream with sugared cloudberries.
sugared cloudberries
Cloudberries grow wild all over Finland. I would love to see them growing.
my delicious dessert
If you go to Helsinki try Saaga, at Bulevardi, 34, it’s great. (09) 7425 5544
There were photos of scenes from Lapland on the walls. The Sami people are still reindeer herders, but use modern equipment to help them these days.
a Sami family from another time
a reindeer sled
I photographed a handsome Sami lad at Salone del Gusto last year. I really like the traditional clothing.
pity he wasn't wearing the cute hat
Deb, I love this post! I’ve just been watching a show about the Sami people and their reindeer! I would LOVE to wear their colourful clothing – I really must stop wearing black. Can you please come to Sydney and sort me out? I have absolutely no fashion sense. 🙂
By: Celia @ Fig Jam and Lime Cordial on June 7, 2011
at 10:08 am
I’d love to come to Sydney to meet you. I might just do that soon. Finland is a fabulous place. I’m so glad my grandfather was Finnish.
By: bagnidilucca on June 7, 2011
at 10:22 am
Wow, you really know how to transport someone to another place. I wish I could smell it too. I am imagining the taste and the feel. Wonderful post.
By: Liz Golding on June 7, 2011
at 10:10 am
We were delighted with our find. We’ll be going back there.
By: bagnidilucca on June 7, 2011
at 10:23 am
Magical looking place. I’d love to eat something with the name of cloudberries!
By: From a Tuscan Villa on June 7, 2011
at 10:37 am
You may be able to buy cloudberry jam at Ikea in Florence. They have some Swedish food. They are very delicious and do look like little yellow clouds.
By: bagnidilucca on June 7, 2011
at 10:51 am
One of my favourite post of yours! I loved our time in Finland and it really brought back memories. Even the mention of Juuri brought back memories!
By: Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella on June 7, 2011
at 11:53 am
I love going to Helsinki, it is like going home. I think it is a beautiful city.
By: bagnidilucca on June 7, 2011
at 12:03 pm
That restaurant looks really great! I love the northern culture!
By: eponato on June 7, 2011
at 11:59 am
It was a lot of fun and the food was delicious.
By: bagnidilucca on June 7, 2011
at 12:04 pm
There are parallels with the indigenous people of Australia with the history of the Sami and the Swedes. I know you don’t do politics on your blog, but it’s quite interesting if you want to google it. There are always land use tensions between herders and hunter gatherers and farmers and other settled peoples. History has not treated these groups kindly. I think the Sami have won several landmark cases recently.
By: Joanna @ Zeb Bakes on June 7, 2011
at 12:00 pm
I will look into that, thank you for the pointer.
By: bagnidilucca on June 7, 2011
at 12:05 pm
Good starting point for learning more about the Sami here http://www.samer.se/2137
By: Joanna @ Zeb Bakes on June 7, 2011
at 12:03 pm
Thank you!
By: bagnidilucca on June 7, 2011
at 12:18 pm
Derba: it reminds me a little of Seattle. we have a huge Scandanavian area in Seattle called Ballard. very cool restaurants.
I cant beleive how cool their traditional clothes were.
the young man with that belt on. it looks very classy. the family looks very proud.
the food looks soooooo good. im just getting to work and it made me hungry.
my dads side is not that far north but they are from northern Italy around the Dolomite Mountains called Lon near Trento . very Tyrolean, Austrian but still part of Italy as that part of Austria was talken over by italy in the war. just a little history.
thanks for making my mornings fun. ciao.
By: george miori on June 7, 2011
at 2:07 pm
The place looks terrific and with plenty of atmosphere. And the fish must taste delicious… I have not seen the cloudberry jam at Ikea, although I always buy some Swedish food there whenever I go. Next time, I would ask them, just in case.
By: Mulino Dominillo on June 7, 2011
at 2:15 pm
The fish in Finland is very good, I always order it. I occasionally order reindeer, but feel mean doing so.
By: bagnidilucca on June 7, 2011
at 9:47 pm
Hi Deb,
Beautiful! reminds me of my time in Lapland. Ikea does a great take home jar of cloudberries – nice with salmon
Mike
By: mike on June 7, 2011
at 9:37 pm
Cloudberries are great aren’t they?
By: bagnidilucca on June 7, 2011
at 9:48 pm
Great post Debra. I would love to go there. I was once all hooked up to work there for a year, but it never eventuated. I always wonder how it would have been…
It must be a stunning country.
By: cityhippyfarmgirl on June 7, 2011
at 10:17 pm
We have driven over quite a lot of Finland and we loved it. I want to go back there in summer when everything is open and busy. We were there in late autumn and while it wasn’t too cold, we were a bit between seasons – the summer stuff was closed and the winter season hadn’t started. I really want to go back to Lapland in winter.
By: bagnidilucca on June 7, 2011
at 10:48 pm
Hi Debra,
This restaurant is a must on our stay in Heksinki. Don’t feel bad eating Rudolph, there are plenty of them and cows are just as cute!
My great grandmother was a Lapp, I would love to know more about her history but don’t know her maiden name.
The Cloudberry jam from Ikea is OK but the Swedes make things very sweet. So I think it has too much sugar which takes away from the taste of these delicious berries.
Finland is a stunning country in every season…
By: kirsi sade on June 7, 2011
at 11:57 pm
You could probably track down your grandmother’s name. There must be records somewhere. I have eaten reindeer and it is very good. I know they are farmed just like cattle are here, so I should feel too guilty. I think Finland is incredibly beautiful. Autumn was gorgeous with the golden trees. I would love to go boating on some of the lakes and for this we need to go in summer.
By: bagnidilucca on June 8, 2011
at 2:15 am
Ciao Debra,
never been there…but it sound really interesting!!
have a lovely day!
Simona
By: Simona on June 8, 2011
at 7:26 am
Finland is lovely – you should go.
By: bagnidilucca on June 8, 2011
at 7:35 am
Hi Deb,
Lovely photos of your visit to Finland.
I am currently travelling in QLD. Lovely weather and state.
Thanks for sharing Rosi’s lovely photos. Loved the photo of Nila having fun in the lake.
Cheers Judy.
By: Judy on June 8, 2011
at 7:40 am
Where are you in Qld?
By: bagnidilucca on June 8, 2011
at 7:59 am
Excellent post. I can’t wait to try the restaurant!
By: Tom Beidler on June 8, 2011
at 8:06 am
It’s great. I’m sure you will like it.
By: bagnidilucca on June 8, 2011
at 8:08 am
Atlantic Char roasting on a board in front of an open fire is the most delicious dish ever! I mostly remember eating Salmon and potatoes, practically on a daily basis for 6 weeks – with some intermittent reindeer… Awesome! Have you tried their Koskenkorva??
By: Lu on June 8, 2011
at 12:41 pm
I haven’t. What is it?
By: bagnidilucca on June 9, 2011
at 4:07 am
It’s an extremely intoxicating white spirit of sorts. If I remember correctly (?!), it has a bit of an aniseed flavour. Best sampled ICE cold- straight from a freezer in shot glasses that are also chilled – or the taste is a bit of an assault on the old taste buds..especially for us Non-Fins, who haven’t grown up on the stuff! For me, it is no small wonder that the Finnish word for “cheers” is “Kippis” – after a few shots of Koskenkorva that’s exactly how I felt!
By: Lu on June 9, 2011
at 6:59 am
I will look out for it the next time I am in Finland. I love the word Kippis!
By: bagnidilucca on June 9, 2011
at 7:33 am
Looks delicious! We’re definitely going to try and eat there this week while we’re in Helsinki. Thanks for posting!
By: Two Britts on August 23, 2011
at 4:12 pm
We thought it was very good and the setting is wonderful.
By: bagnidilucca on August 23, 2011
at 9:13 pm
[…] will not go hungry in Finland. Take a look here for some delicious Lapp food. Share this:ShareEmailPrintFacebookLike this:LikeBe the first to like […]
By: Breakfast in Finland « Bagni di Lucca and Beyond on September 3, 2011
at 5:24 am